Overseeing everything that happens in the multiple dining outlets across the Graton Resort & Casino is Jennifer Murphy-Ellamar, vice president of culinary operations.
Among these spots is the new SoCo Dough Co., a creative doughnut shop that taps some of the innovative flavor creations from Murphy-Ellamar’s mind with lavish preparations, like the Millionaire’s Doughnut with chocolate hazelnut filling, hazelnut crémeux, gold leaf, chocolate crisp and chocolate ganache, paired with a one-ounce pour of Louis XIII cognac. It costs $275; so if one is on a winning streak, they may pop into SoCo.
Amber Turpin: How did you get into this work?
Jennifer Murphy-Ellamar: My Vietnamese mother is an incredible cook, and I spent so much of my childhood just watching her and helping her in the kitchen. I enrolled in culinary school at 18, moved to Las Vegas in my early 20s and fell in love with restaurant culture. I worked my way up from line cook all the way to property executive chef at Caesars Palace. Eventually that path led me here, into operations. Where I once focused on what was on the plate, I now focus on leadership and strategic planning, and honestly, I enjoy this chapter just as much, maybe even more.
What is your favorite thing to cook (or eat) and why?
To cook? A perfectly executed French omelette. It sounds simple, but it is one of the most honest tests of a cook’s skill. It’s something I still practice whenever I make myself breakfast.
To eat? My mom’s phở. No restaurant has ever come close. The broth takes a full day to simmer. I love the smell of the charred ginger and onion, star anise, cinnamon and cloves. You cannot rush it. That patience is what makes it extraordinary.
What ingredients do you use or eat the most?
It depends on what we’re cooking, but fish sauce. It’s the backbone of so much Vietnamese cooking and honestly one of the most underrated ingredients in any cuisine. I like to sneak it in wherever I can because it adds this incredible depth and umami that people can’t quite put their finger on. I learned that from my mom. She’s been quietly adding fish sauce to her spaghetti sauce for years.
What are some of your go-to places to go out for a sit-down meal? What about take-out?
For a sit-down meal, I almost always gravitate toward Asian restaurants. A great omakase, regional Chinese, especially Sichuan, Thai food, Korean BBQ. I love it all. For takeout? Pizza. Classic pepperoni.
Last meal on Earth?
That’s a hard question. Can it be a buffet? I’m serious … love a good spread. But if I had to pick one thing, I’d say a great cheeseburger. Ask me again tomorrow, and my answer will be different.
SoCo Dough Co.,288 Golf Course Dr. W., Rohnert Park, 707.588.7100, graton.com/fast-casual.
