Food & Drink: Got Gott’s

Marin welcomes modern burger joint

Remarkably, Gott’s Roadside manages to serve Niman Ranch grass-fed burgers, inspired Ahi Poke Crispy Tacos and an all-vegetarian Impossible Burger without a whiff of pretense. Yes—Gott’s has come to Marin—and their seventh Northern California outlet, set to open on March 1 in Greenbrae’s Bon Air Center, might be their most impressive display of comfort-food-meets-California-fresh to date.

Before it was Gott’s, the original St. Helena roadside burger joint was Taylor’s Refresher, founded in 1949. Brothers Joel and Duncan Gott bought the iconic restaurant in 1999, but didn’t change the name until 2010.

A signature neon ‘EAT’ sign confirms the retro/diner vibe, but everything else is modern, open and airy. Stark white walls, an exhibition kitchen surrounded by glass and plenty of blonde wood tables and metal chairs make for a visually stunning interior. Unlike the other locations, the one at Bon Air features a bar with draft beer options, as well as canned and bottled choices. Extra taps will allow the eatery to rotate seasonal and new microbrews to keep the selection varied. Predominately Napa wines are available by the glass and bottle, and because it’s Marin, Revive Kombucha is also on tap.

And make no mistake—Gott’s isn’t just for burger lovers. Their fresh tacos and inventive salads and sandwiches are not mere afterthoughts. That said, the burgers—including the California, with a fried egg, bacon and arugula, or the Western Bacon Blue Ring, filled with onion rings, Point Reyes blue cheese and bacon—are difficult to resist over a Chicken Kale Caesar.

With a family-friendly menu that features just the right mix of familiar (sweet potato fries) and new (Kimchi Burger), Gott’s is almost certain to be an instant success. Oh, did I mention that they also have soft-serve ice cream and milkshakes in classic flavors?

Gott’s Roadside, opening March 1, Bon Air Center, Greenbrae;

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