Harvest Time, From Garden to Kitchen with Thomas Mendel 

Hamel Estate sits on a hillside above Sonoma Valley, where winemaker John Hamel has spent years developing certified biodynamic and organic vineyards through dry farming. 

The winery’s culinary program, under executive chef Thomas Mendel, has become a meaningful part of the Hamel experience. 

Mendel came to cooking early, learning at the side of his Italian-American grandmother in her kitchen. He went on to train formally at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, and later completed the CIA’s wine program in St. Helena. Prior to joining Hamel in 2023, he served as sous chef at Hazel Hill, the signature restaurant at Montage Healdsburg, part of the team that opened the property.

The new Chef’s Experience tasting features four small courses paired with Hamel wines, highlighting the culinary garden that Mendel planted last year. Farmed biodynamically, it produced its first harvest in early December and ultimately produced more than 100 pounds of beets, potatoes, heirloom tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, eggplant and other vegetables. The garden currently holds strawberries, tatsoi, herbs and edible flowers, with summer squash, corn, cucumbers and eggplant.

Worth noting as well is the winery itself, a contemporary space with floor-to-ceiling windows that open the building to its hillside setting and the valley views beyond. A small herd of Scottish Highland cattle graze the vineyards and contribute to the estate’s biodynamic farming cycle.

Amber Turpin: How did you get into this work?

Thomas Mendel: I found a love for cooking at home, and I always remember being in the kitchen with my Nonna at a young age. I started out cooking part time during high school at a local seafood restaurant. That then translated to a career when my dad suggested I look into culinary school. I applied to the Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park; got my degree; and moved out to California, where my professional career really started.

What is your favorite thing to cook (or eat) and why?

I can never turn down freshly made pasta. It’s one of the most versatile mediums, works in all seasons, and can be almost therapeutic when making it.

What ingredients do you use or eat the most?

I love tomatoes, mushrooms, ramps and all types of citrus, to name a few. While I don’t typically cook with it too much, one of my vices is dark chocolate.

What are some of your go-to places to go out for a sit-down meal? What about take out?

I love Bear at Stanley Ranch, Charlie’s in St. Helena, Amami Sushi in Napa and Ciccio’s in Yountville. We don’t do much take out, but we like a burger or salad from Gott’s or pizza from Croccante.

Last meal on Earth?

Costco hot dog plus Diet Coke, any sandwich from Deli Board in SF, Agnolotti del Plin from Cotogna, soft serve from Angler and a glass of Green Chartreuse VEP.

Hamel Family Wines,15401 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma. 707.996.5800. hamelfamilywines.com.

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