Out of the Kitchen and Into the Cellar with Eric Fox

Readers might recognize Eric Fox from his days at The Matheson, where he was restaurant manager before joining the new Appellation Healdsburg as director of food & beverage. 

His background also includes sommelier and beverage leadership positions at some of the country’s most celebrated dining destinations, including Michelin-starred Spruce, Coi and Lazy Bear in San Francisco.

Amber Turpin: How did you get into this work?

Eric Fox: It started with a deep passion for the culinary arts, which eventually led me to study at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. While I loved the culinary side, I became completely captivated by the world of wine and hospitality. I threw myself into the sommelier certification process, earning my advanced sommelier pin after moving to California. 

Over time, that drive naturally evolved from working service into operational leadership. Today, I get to blend all of those passions together—building out hospitality standards, developing standard operating procedures and creating unique guest experiences.

Did you ever have an ‘aha’ moment with a certain beverage? If so, tell us about it.

That moment for me was with the 2006 Qupé Roussanne from the Bien Nacido Vineyard. Tasting that wine gave me pause to sit back in my seat. It demonstrated the profound depth and texture a California white could achieve when grown in the right site and handled with care. The way it balanced richness with a savory, mineral-driven complexity completely shifted my perspective and deepened my drive to study the intricacies of wine.

What is your favorite thing to drink at home?

Honestly, I keep it pretty simple at home. Usually, it’s just a local beer or lots of sparkling water. If I am opening wine, I lean toward something light and easy drinking, like a Frappato or a Beaujolais.

Where do you like to go out for a drink?

Working in Sonoma County gives me access to an incredible food and beverage community. When you spend your entire day analyzing beverage programs and pushing limits in a high-end environment, you crave a palate cleanser when you’re off the clock. 

I love going to places that execute at a high level without being pretentious—spots that focus on great local ingredients, whether that’s a perfectly pulled pint at a neighborhood brewery or a flawlessly balanced classic cocktail at a comfortable bar where the hospitality speaks for itself; Lo & Behold, Maison Healdsburg, Bird & The Bottle and Valley in Sonoma are some of my favorites.

If you were stuck on a desert island, what would you want to be drinking (besides fresh water)?

It’s tempting to name a legendary, age-worthy Burgundy, but if I’m stranded on an island, practicality wins. I’d want an endless supply of crisp, high-quality Gruner Veltliner or Etna Bianco. They are both incredibly versatile, infinitely complex, and they never get fatiguing on the palate. 

Appellation Healdsburg,101 Dovetail Ln., Healdsburg, 707.723.2000, appellationhotels.com/hotels/california-healdsburg.

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