Food & Drink: Smoke Signals

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The Kona Coast of Hawaii grows some of the finest coffee on Earth. The trees, along with orchards of citrus, tropical fruit and macadamia nuts, have helped bring forest cover to what had been a barren lava-scape, and turned the Big Island’s west coast into an edible forest paradise. Coffee tourists drive through this paradise from plantation to plantation, paying upwards of $30 a pound.

 Alas, this Eden is burning. The smell of blackened toast hovers around the roasters scattered about the coast. It’s the smell of wonderful coffee beans being charred beyond recognition. Dark roast seems to be the norm in Kona. Medium can be sought out. Asking for light has exposed me to verbal abuse.

I suppose that if you take your coffee with enough cream and sugar, you can overpower any amount of burnt bitterness. A light or medium roast, meanwhile, can be sipped all day long. Most importantly, a mellow roast allows me to taste the differences from bean to bean, and to detect more notes in the flavor. The same is true with bread, meat or anything else that can be burned. I like just a note of that burnt flavor, not a pounding.  

This light roast thing is hardly a secret. Many of the world’s finest coffees, including those from Ethiopia, the birthplace of coffee, are lightly roasted, so that their nuance can be cleanly detected and enjoyed.

One Kona grower not on the blackened bandwagon, Jim Monk of Monk’s Delight Kona Coffee company, makes wry commentary on over-roasting in his play-by-play of the coffee roasting process. When it reaches the so-called “French Roast” stage, Monk notes, the body of the resulting cup will be thinner as the aromatic compounds, oils and soluble solids are burned out of the coffee.

The great-smelling smoke that results could also be called flavor that is no longer in the bean. And it turns out that more than flavor is roasted away in this process. In the transition between light and dark, caffeine is lost as well. This officially makes light coffee drinkers more caffeinated than dark, but there is, nonetheless, a popular case to be made in favor of dark roast. It was explained to me by Conner McCamant, 17, who recently started Creakin’ Crick coffee company in his parents’ basement in Missoula, Montana. While unabashedly on team light, McCamant was diplomatic in paying his respects to the dark side.

“There are flavors that come out in darker roasts like nuttiness, coca and bitterness,” he told me via text. “Some specialty roasters prefer coffee that is substantially darker than mine. I assume this makes them seek out beans that have flavors more compatible with that type to roast.

“I and the people around me don’t enjoy the bitter, less complex, sometimes burnt flavors of a darker bean,” McCamant says. “And when you focus on the dark flavors, it leaves the light ones behind. The fruity and acidic flavors are more pronounced on the lighter side of the spectrum; I look for beans that are either fruity or ones I can strike a good balance with between light and dark. I find light roasts are generally more complex and less bitter than beans that have mostly darker flavors. Honestly though what it comes down to is preference.”  

McCamant’s dad texted in a caveat. “Those volatile compounds that we like in the light-to-medium roasts are gone from the roasted beans after two-to-three weeks. Most coffee bought from a store has already lost those volatile compounds and their flavors.”

Beyond flavor, storage and the benefits of a small-scale agricultural industry, if we take an honest look at coffee and the roasting process, we should look at the health implications—because there are certainly some red flags. Of particular concern is the creation of carcinogens by browning, blackening and burning things. A lawsuit was recently filed against California coffee growers, alleging violation of California’s Proposition 65, which requires food companies to disclose if their products contain certain chemicals, including acrylamide, which is a byproduct of coffee roasting, among many other culinary processes.

Toast-burning, oven-browning, stir-frying, potato-chipping, rotisserie-chickening and many, many other culinary processes all create acrylamide. But coffee, burnt toast and a handful of other browned and blackened delicacies create the most. Ditto for another class of chemical, the polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). But repeated attempts to find them in charred foods have yielded non-scary results.

A recent Consumer Reports article on coffee and health found that—paraphrasing here—the more you drink, the longer you live. That’s good enough for me, even if it doesn’t answer the question of how dark to roast it. All I can say is, if you must drink it dark, don’t do it to beans you care about.

“Some coffees can be excellent at [a dark roast] stage,” Monk allows. But Kona, is  “ … not one of those.”

Feature: Gav for Guv?

Lt. Gov. Gavin Newsom is running for governor of California this year, and our colleague Jennifer Wadsworth, at Metro, our San Jose-based sister paper, caught up with him at a recent event at the Laborers’ International Union of North America in Silicon Valley. Newsom talked about education, the tech sector, income inequality, cannabis, affordable housing, Trump and more (see our ‘Weed the People’ story, Feb. 14, for more on cannabis). Will Gav be guv? He’s facing off against former Los Angeles Mayor Antonio Villaraigosa (who nabbed the endorsement of San Jose Mayor Sam Liccardo), California State Treasurer John Chiang and Delaine Eastin, the former California state superintendent of public instruction and the only woman in the race. The latest polls have Newsom and Villaraigosa running neck-and-neck in advance of the nonpartisan June 5 primary.—Tom Gogola

Pacific Sun: Bay Area cities are ground zero for income inequality. How do you think we arrived at this point of extreme poverty in the shadow of plenty, and what steps would you take as governor to alleviate those problems—both on a structural level and in the short-term?

Gavin Newsom: The only substantive way we’re going to address this issue is you’ve got to begin at the beginning. Our interventions come too late. We’re playing catch-up, we’re triaging it. At the end of the day, if we don’t focus on the first few precious years of a child’s life, we are making a huge mistake—and we’ve been doing that for a generation. The science is in, it’s overwhelming: Billions and billions of neurons exploding at the same time; 85 percent of that brain is developed by the age of 3. If you don’t capture a kid by the age of 3, we’re going to be spending extraordinary amounts of money playing catch-up.

So we have a huge focus on prenatal care, on nurse home visits, early intervention and those first three precious years. Obviously as mayor, I did universal preschool—fully implemented it. That’s profoundly important from a foundational perspective. But that’s, to me, my focus: The readiness gap, and not waiting for it to become an achievement gap.

Do you think that’s something California could pull off without federal funding?

We can. We’d love to see the federal government recognize what all the experts already know, but the state can amplify better behavior at the local level. Local government needs to significantly increase its investment, counties need to increase their investment, and certainly the state needs to incentivize that. And that’s a big part of what we want to do, is incentivize better behavior at the local level.

I think what’s happened in the past is, [what] governors have done—we’ve modestly invested in this space, but not to the degree that I’m committed to. This is a very specific distinction between my campaign and the campaign of others, and between the status quo and what I hope to promote as the next governor.

How do you fund something that ambitious?

It’s a question of priority. We did [universal] preschool in the middle of a recession as mayor. I did universal healthcare in the middle of a recession as mayor.

So you’re advocating a bottom-up approach?

It’s the only way to address these issues. Otherwise, I’m just giving you platitudes, I’m just giving you political speak, I’m saying nothing meaningful, because all I would be offering is a strategy to fail more efficiently. And that’s, unfortunately, what we’re doing. There has to be a recognition and a reconciliation of the failure in our society to substantively address the importance of those critical early years.

You garner a lot of support from the tech sector, and you’ve championed the tech industry as a way to solve some of the inequalities we’re grappling with. But in many ways, Silicon Valley has exacerbated these social ills. As governor, how would you hold the industry accountable to upholding its end of the social contract?

One of my closest friends, the godfather of my firstborn, Marc Benioff [CEO of Salesforce], is a shining example of someone who gets it and gets it done. Follow his example. He’s been an unbelievable leader. He’s walked his talk, on gender pay and pay equity and environmental stewardship. He just announced what they’re doing with the Salesforce Tower in terms of meeting LEED Platinum levels, and the incredible water-efficiency proposals that he’s advancing. My point being that on issue after issue, on homelessness, philanthropy contribution, on what businesses can do in real time—not waiting until a massive amount of wealth is concentrated and then at the end of your life you redistribute it—he has marked, I think, the type of example that others should follow.

Giving while living.

Yeah, and also, you know, amplifying the workforce to do the same individually—not just as an institution. It’s a way of saying this: Look, I’m very close, as you know, with a lot of leaders in the community, and there’s an empathy gap, and that needs to be closed, and I’m committed to working in the valley to address those issues. I’d like to see the kind of ingenuity, the entrepreneurial spirit put to address the issues of social mobility as it is for pushing out products and new iterations of releases.

And to see them repatriate their taxes?

Well, it’s also an opportunity—don’t think for a second that when I read Tim Cook’s announcement [to repatriate Apple’s overseas profits because of the GOP tax measure] that I didn’t think of many things that he could be doing in the state of California with those dollars to address those issues. By the way, one of the big ways is to deal with the housing crisis in this region. That’s an issue that should immediately galvanize the tech community, particularly when it comes to the missing middle, to workforce housing.

In that same vein, how do you plan to make sure local governments are building their share of affordable housing?

They need to be held to account. In our housing plan, we want to assign sanctions for those who aren’t meeting their housing element. We actually want to be punitive. You’ve got to be tough.

How? By withholding transit dollars. It’s an amazing part of our proposal that no one has yet seemingly read. Because if they had read it, they would be critical.

I know the Metropolitan Transportation Commission (MTC) has talked about that for a long time.

Thank you. Yes, and we reference the MTC’s work in our plan. So we’re there. I was inspired by that, in fact. You’re the first person I’ve talked to who’s known that.

I interview a lot of wonky people about this kind of thing.

That’s great.

Would you sign a bill to repeal the Costa-Hawkins Rental Housing Act [the 1995 state law which limits locally written rent-control ordinances]?

I would promote amendments to Costa-Hawkins. I don’t know that I would come out with an outright repeal. I think the consequences of that could be pronounced, particularly on housing production and construction. I think it could have a chilling effect.

That said, I take a back seat to no one on my strong support for rental protections, eviction protections, [the owner move-in] Ellis Act—you couldn’t be mayor of San Francisco unless you were raising the bar on those issues. I think there’s a real deal to be made with the advocates of that repeal, and some of the larger organizations, from the realtors and the [California] Apartment Association. So I would encourage that.

Let’s talk about cannabis. One of the complaints we’re hearing from consumers is about the high cost of compliance, the high cost of regulation under Proposition 64, which appears to be prompting people to turn back to the black market. What do you think the state can do to strike the right regulatory balance here, to prevent illegal sales and to keep the industry above board?

Look, I was the principal proponent, principal author of cannabis legalization. I spent three years organizing an effort to get it on the ballot, and to get it passed, and I feel, as a consequence, a great sense of responsibility to make sure it’s done right. Legalization is not an act that occurred on Election Day, November last year. It’s a process that will unfold over a course of years, and that’s why you’ve got to be open to argument, interested in the evidence, those kinds of concerns, and iterative in terms of those applications to the rules. As you know, in the initiative we allowed for a simple majority—or a modest majority, forgive me—to amend so we don’t have to go back in front of the voters.

I’m worried about the small growers—absolutely, unequivocally. I’m worried about the black market being stubborn and persistent because of the regulatory environment, and I want to be in tune and in touch with that and address those issues in real time.

On clean energy, you said, “It’s a point of pride and a point of principle for the next governor to change the bar.” In what ways would you raise that bar and turn Gov. Brown’s memoranda of understanding on these issues into actionable steps?

If the governor doesn’t sign a bill to get to 100 percent [clean energy] by 2045, then I will. I want to eliminate diesel by 2030. We have to move forward with regionalizing our grid. We’ve got to focus on storage enhancements. I want to double all local efforts.

Look, I’m the guy who did the plastic-bag ban, I was the one that presided over a city with the first composting requirements in the U.S. and the highest green building standards in the country. San Francisco was the national leader in low carbon green growth. Every year San Francisco is being called out as one of the greenest cities in the United States—if not literally the greenest. Portland, Oregon, stubbornly, is right there with us. I’m passionate about these issues. Picking up where Gov. Brown left off is very exciting to me and enlivening, and so this is an area where no one has to convince me to maintain our leadership internationally, not just nationally.

You mentioned in your speech earlier that it’s important to put out a positive, alternative narrative to the Trump administration. What would that ‘positive, alternative narrative’ look like in concrete terms over the coming few years?

All of the above. Everything we just said. From affordability, to healthcare, to the environment, to the issues of promoting our values and the diversity. The entire conversation is framed in terms of what we export that’s so uniquely California. We’re the innovation capital of the world, entrepreneurialism is running through our veins, research and development, diversity is celebrated not tolerated, environmental stewardship, issues associated with healthcare and taking some more aggressive and bold approaches to addressing the needs of our uninsured—all of these areas that I think would provide ample evidence of California’s dominance in terms of mind-share, in terms of economic growth, in terms of advancing our agenda for the future.

Hero & Zero: A Young Hero & A Sneaky Coward

Hero: Larkspur athlete Hollis Belger is one of four finalists in the 2018 SheBelieves Hero Contest, sponsored by U.S. Soccer. At the ripe old age of 13, she’s no stranger to the hero title. Last year, the fundraising arm of St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital honored her for raising money and awareness with her program called Juggling for Jude. She keeps a soccer ball in the air by juggling it with alternating feet, and in return, she asks folks to donate a buck per juggle. In four years, Belger has raised almost $200,000 for the hospital. “I will juggle until no child has cancer,” she says. We believe in you, Belger. Visit jugglingforjude.com to help this extraordinary teen altruist achieve her goal.

Zero: Irene returned to her car after shopping at Home Depot in San Rafael, but before she could start the engine, a woman let go of a shopping cart, which then slammed into the passenger side of her vehicle. Unfortunately, it left a crater of a dent. Irene exited her car and approached the woman, who by that time had retrieved the cart and walked away. She seemed annoyed that Irene stopped her, but agreed that the cart caused the damage. However, she refused to reveal her name and contact info, claiming that it wasn’t her fault, because she had let go of her cart to catch an escaped cart that belonged to another shopper. Then, she ran away like a sniveling hit-and-run coward, a deadbeat, a Zero.

Free Will Astrology

ARIES (March 21-April 19): When you’re playing poker, a wild card refers to a card that can be used as any card the cardholder wants it to be. If the two of hearts is deemed wild before the game begins, it can be used as an ace of diamonds, jack of clubs, queen of spades or anything else. That’s always a good thing! In the game of life, a wild card is the arrival of an unforeseen element that affects the flow of events unpredictably. It might derail your plans, or alter them in ways that are at first inconvenient but ultimately beneficial. It may even cause them to succeed in an even more interesting fashion than you imagined they could. I bring this up, Aries, because I suspect that you’ll be in the wild card season during the next four weeks. Any and all of the above definitions may apply. Be alert for unusual luck.

TAURUS (April 20-May 20): If you gorge on 10 pounds of chocolate in the next 24 hours, you will get sick. Please don’t do that. Limit your intake to no more than a pound. Follow a similar policy with any other pleasurable activity. Feel emboldened to surpass your normal dosage, yes, but avoid ridiculous overindulgence. Now is one of the rare times when visionary artist William Blake’s maxim is applicable: “The road of excess leads to the palace of wisdom.” So is his corollary, “You never know what is enough until you know what is more than enough.” But keep in mind that Blake didn’t say, “The road of foolish, reckless exorbitance leads to the palace of wisdom.”

GEMINI (May 21-June 20): Have you ever had a rousing insight about an action that would improve your life, but then you failed to summon the willpower to actually take that action? Have you resolved to embark on some new behavior that would be good for you, but then found yourself unable to carry it out? Most of us have experienced these frustrations. The ancient Greeks had a word for it: Akrasia. I bring it up, Gemini, because I suspect that you may be less susceptible to akrasia in the next four weeks than you have ever been. I bet you will consistently have the courage and command to actually follow through on what your intuition tells you is in your best interests.

CANCER (June 21-July 22): “There is no such thing as a failed experiment,” said inventor Buckminster Fuller, “only experiments with unexpected outcomes.” That’s an excellent guideline for you to keep in mind during the coming weeks. You’re entering a phase of your astrological cycle when questions are more important than answers, when explorations are more essential than discoveries and when curiosity is more useful than knowledge. There will be minimal value in formulating a definitive concept of success and then trying to achieve it. You will have more fun and you will learn more by continually redefining success as you wander and ramble.

LEO (July 23-Aug. 22): During World War II, British code-breakers regularly intercepted and deciphered top-secret radio messages that high-ranking German soldiers sent to each other. Historians have concluded that these heroes shortened the war by at least two years. I bring this to your attention, Leo, in the hope that it will inspire you. I believe your own metaphorical code-breaking skills will be acute in the coming weeks. You’ll be able to decrypt messages that have different meanings from what they appear to mean. You won’t get fooled by deception and misdirection. This knack will enable you to home in on the elusive truths that are circulating—thus saving you from unnecessary and irrelevant turmoil.

VIRGO (Aug. 23-Sept. 22): In April of 1972, three American astronauts climbed into a spacecraft and took a trip to the moon and back. On the second day of the 11-day jaunt, pilot Ken Mattingly removed and misplaced his wedding ring. In the zero-gravity conditions, it drifted off and disappeared somewhere in the cabin. Nine days later, on the way home, Mattingly and Charlie Duke did a space walk. When they opened the hatch and slipped outside, they found the wedding ring floating in the blackness of space. Duke was able to grab it and bring it in. I suspect that in the coming weeks, you will recover a lost or missing item in an equally unlikely location, Virgo. Or perhaps your retrieval will be of a more metaphorical kind: A dream, a friendship or an opportunity.

LIBRA (Sept. 23-Oct. 22): According to British philosopher Alain de Botton, “Maturity begins with the capacity to sense and, in good time and without defensiveness, admit to our own craziness.” He says that our humble willingness to be embarrassed by our confusion and mistakes and doubts is key to understanding ourselves. I believe that these meditations will be especially useful for you in the coming weeks, Libra. They could lead you to learn and make use of robust new secrets of self-mastery.

SCORPIO (Oct. 23-Nov. 21): During the next four weeks, there are three activities that I suspect you should indulge in at an elevated rate: Laughter, dancing and sex. The astrological omens suggest that these pursuits will bring you even more health benefits than usual. They will not only give your body, mind and soul the precise exercise they need most, they will also make you smarter, kinder and wilder. Fortunately, the astrological omens also suggest that laughter, dancing and sex will be even more easily available to you than they normally are.

SAGITTARIUS (Nov. 22-Dec. 21): The little voices in your head may have laryngitis, but they’re still spouting their cracked advice. Here’s another curiosity: You are extra-attuned to the feelings and thoughts of other people. I’m tempted to speculate that you’re at least temporarily telepathic. There’s a third factor contributing to the riot in your head: People you were close to earlier in your life are showing up to kibitz you in your nightly dreams. In response, I bid you to bark, “Enough!” at all of these meddlers. You have astrological permission to tell them to pipe down so you can hear yourself think.

CAPRICORN (Dec. 22-Jan. 19): Paleontologist Jack Horner says that developmental biologists are halfway toward being able to create a chickenosaurus—a creature that is genetically a blend of a chicken and a dinosaur. This project is conceivable because there’s an evolutionary link between the ancient reptile and the modern bird. Now is a favorable time for you to contemplate metaphorically similar juxtapositions and combinations, Capricorn. For the foreseeable future, you’ll have extra skill and savvy in the art of amalgamation.

AQUARIUS (Jan. 20-Feb. 18): “Be stubborn about your goals but flexible about your methods.” That’s the message I saw on a woman’s T-shirt today. It’s the best possible advice for you to hear right now. To further drive home the point, I’ll add a quote from productivity consultant David Allen: “Patience is the calm acceptance that things can happen in a different order than the one you have in mind.” Are you willing to be loyal and true to your high standards, Aquarius, even as you improvise to uphold and fulfill them?

PISCES (Feb. 19-March 20): In her novel The Round House, writer Louise Erdrich reminisces about how hard it was, earlier in her life, to yank out the trees whose roots had grown into the foundation of her family’s house. “How funny, strange, that a thing can grow so powerful even when planted in the wrong place,” she says. Then she adds, “ideas, too.” Your first assignment in the coming weeks, my dear Pisces, is to make sure that nothing gets planted in the wrong place. Your second assignment is to focus all of your intelligence and love on locating the right places for new seeds to be planted.

Homework: Is it possible that there’s something you really need but you don’t know what it is? Can you guess what it might be? Go to Freewillastrology.com and click on “Email Rob.”

Advice Goddess

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Q: What do dreams mean? I was dumped 10 months ago. I couldn’t stop thinking about him. Now I barely do, but last night, I dreamed I broke into his apartment, found him in bed with this gorgeous girl, and punched her in the face. Does this mean I’m not over him?—Wanna Start Dating

A: Follow your dreams—and end up doing five to 10 in the pen for home invasion and assault!

The widely believed myth that dreams are filled with meaningful symbolism is an unfortunate form of what I call Freud reflux—the “I Dream of Penie” version of a questionable burrito that keeps repeating on you. The assumption that Freud knew what he was talking about comes not from any solid evidence for his claims but, as I wrote in a previous column, probably in part because he “accessorized so credibly, with the cigar, the iconic eyewear, and the groovy Viennese fainting couch.”

Psychologist G. William Domhoff, on the other hand, has done decades of rigorous research on dreaming. He finds that there’s really no good scientific evidence that dreams have any importance for guiding our lives—no evidence that they have any function or useful meaning for us.

Domhoff explains dreaming as “intensified mind-wandering” that leads to “imaginative but largely realistic simulations of waking life.” Brain imaging of people in REM sleep (a sleep stage often accompanied by vivid dreams) suggests that our capacity to dream is “an accidental byproduct of our waking cognitive abilities” and may be a “subsystem” of the “default mode network” of the brain.

This is simply the network of neurons the brain “defaults” to when you aren’t doing targeted thinking, like trying to solve some complicated equation or remember some word in French. Your brain doesn’t just shut down between these targeted thinking jags. It does what I think of as “background processing,” gnawing at problems you were previously focused on—but it does it beneath your conscious awareness while you’re, oh, washing a dish or having sex.

So, in a way, dreamtime seems to be a kind of cognitive autopilot. In brain scans of people in REM sleep, neurobiologist Yuval Nir sees decreased self-awareness, attention and memory. There’s also reduced “voluntary control” of action and thought—which is why, when dreaming, we cannot control “the content of the dream.” Nir also finds that there’s often—surprise, surprise—greater emotionality when dreaming.

However, Domhoff says that in many instances, dreams “dramatize ongoing emotional preoccupations.” These are sometimes unhealthy or at least unhelpful. You’d think you could just try to avoid thinking those thoughts during your waking hours. Unfortunately, research by the late social psychologist Daniel Wegner suggests otherwise.

Wegner, famously, instructed research participants, “Try not to think of a white bear.” This is a failed proposition from the start, because your mind sweeps around to check whether you’re avoiding bear-pondering—thus leading you to think about the bear. In short, Wegner found that trying to suppress thoughts made them come back with a vengeance. The same was true when he later had subjects try to suppress thoughts just before going to sleep. These subjects were much more likely to have those thoughts be all, “We’re baaaack!” in their dreams.

But—good news—there is a way to outsmart your brain’s yanking you back into the same old abyss. Psychologists Jens Förster and Nira Liberman found that you can probably keep yourself from endlessly revisiting a thought if you simply admit that not thinking of it is hard.

In general, you should try to avoid ruminating—pointlessly rechewing the past, like your mind’s a sadistic TV station always showing the same disturbing rerun. Moving forward takes thinking about the past in “forward” ways—basically, by making meaning out of it. So when you find yourself reflecting on this relationship, remind yourself to look at it from the standpoint of what you’ve learned—what you’ll apply to make your relationships work better in the future. Before long, you could be on a date again—and I don’t mean one of his, with binoculars from a car across the street.

This Week in the Pacific Sun

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This week in the Pacific Sun, our cover story, ‘Painful Memories,’ explores the affect of the #MeToo movement on survivors of sexual abuse. On top of that, we’ve got a piece on Gott’s Roadside coming soon to Marin, a story on Jasmien Hamed’s Sausalito-based clothing brand Très Nomad and a preview of the Beatles vs. Stones musical showdown at the Sweetwater this week. All that and more on stands and online today! 

Film: Eye Candy

We previously met Black Panther’s King T’Challa (the handsome Chadwick Boseman), whose father was assassinated by a vengeful terrorist in Captain America: Civil War. T’Challa is not just king, but the hereditary guardian of the African Shangri-La known as Wakanda—a fantastically advanced civilization disguised as one more poor and remote landlocked country. Costumed in a black super-suit made of the amazing material vibranium—the very substance of which Captain America’s shield is constructed—T’Challa was sucked into the civil war between Earth’s mightiest heroes, the Avengers. But this stand-alone film by Oakland-bred Ryan Coogler leaves the matter there and tells of T’Challa’s war to retain his crown. The king is threatened by the Afrikaner villain Klaue (Andy Serkis), as well as Erik Killmonger (Michael B. Jordan), an African-American war vet with a strong personal connection to the royal family.

One villain is a giggling monster, chortlingly evil—Serkis gives a great nasty yet logical reason for shooting a fleeing man in the back. Jordan’s Killmonger has well-written reasons for his grudge. T’Challa’s beguiling bratty sister (a delightful Letitia Wright) is also the movie’s brilliant weapons and cybernetics expert. Coogler decides that T’Challa can be king, hero and spy all at once, and he’s right. The production design and costumes are dazzling, a pan-African symphony of masks, gowns, scarification and headdresses; you rarely get this level of visual density in a film that’s this much fun.

It’s not going too far to suggest that Coogler is restaging the debate between Martin Luther King, Jr. and Malcolm X as a superhero adventure. If there’s such a thing as a healing fantasy, this may be it: What might have Africa been, if so much hadn’t been stolen from her and her people? Something as remarkable as Wakanda?

Music: Gimme Skelter

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At long last, one of the most divisive issues of our time will be resolved this week at the Sweetwater Music Hall in Mill Valley. No, it’s not a forum on gun control, and no, Sammy Hagar won’t be there to give a TED talk about how he’s the superior Van Halen frontman.

It’s a musical showdown for the ages, folks. It’s the Beatles vs. the Rolling Stones. Two cover bands—Abbey Road and Satisfaction—will be on hand to make their rocking case about the relative merits of both bands. The beer will flow, the blood will spill and the ghost of the great Phil Lynott will stand in judgment.

The long-running Beatles vs. Stones debate has always seemed a little forced and silly. Why can’t we have both, in reasonable and healthy doses? Over the years I’ve come to appreciate the idea of the Beatles—what they represented, how they helped shape and shift the culture—more than the music of the Beatles. I love the music of the Stones, even as they rode in on the British invasion inspired by the Beatles and stole half their ideas.  

The Beatles were working-class lads from Liverpool who, by the time of Sgt. Peppers, had evolved into a group of art-rock shoegazers. The Rolling Stones were meanwhile middle-class art-school poseurs who made some of the greatest workingman’s rock music ever (and continue to do so, having nabbed a Grammy this year for their killer throwback platter, Blue & Lonesome).

So it’s a tough call in the end. “Gimme Shelter” or “Within You Without You”? The former is the greatest rock song ever written; the latter is considered the first piece of psychedelic music ever recorded. The all-ages show will conclude with the bands playing together in a moment of joyful unity under the Flag of Rock. It’s not exactly Ted Nugent linking arms with Eminem, but it’s something.

Beatles vs. Stones—A Musical Showdown, Thursday, Feb. 22, 7pm; $22-$27; Sweetwater Music Hall, 19 Corte Madera Ave., Mill Valley; sweetwatermusichall.com.

Style: Escape Artist

When you visit the studio that Jasmien Hamed’s clothing brand Très Nomad calls home, the garments immediately evoke a crave for ‘down time.’ Located at the ICB building in Sausalito, the space is filled with airy jumpsuits perfect for riding a camel in Morocco, caftans ideal for lounging poolside and loose dresses calling for sunset strolls along the beaches of Bali. The only minor detail left to be arranged is the plane ticket.

The ‘very’ (from the French ‘très’) nomadic brand was hatched around three years ago, in the hands of Hamed, an experienced nomad herself. She was born and raised in Holland, a daughter of a Dutch mother and an Egyptian father. “As a well-traveled child and young adult I was always fascinated with rich cultures, folklore and costumes,” she recalls. Hamed moved to San Francisco in 2003 to pursue her styling career, and worked on commercial projects from large to small, before moving to Sausalito, “a little slice of Europe in Marin,” two years ago. “It feels a lot like home,” Hamed says.

The initial path to Très Nomad was, as it happens, accidental. Hamed made a few patterns for herself, eager to find a dress that fit. “It was around the time that maxi dresses were in fashion, but being 6 feet tall, I always had a problem with anything store-bought, as it was too short for me,” she says. “I contracted my local tailor to sew me the dresses and I over-dyed one in indigo. Then, I wore it to a party in Ibiza and eight different girls came up to me saying they loved it so much and wanted to know where I got it from. I knew I was onto something.”

Très Nomad’s current offerings range from overalls, to maxi and tunic dresses to tops and pants, all in silk, and in more than 30 hues. Why the seemingly impractical fabric? “Working as a fashion stylist for the past 20 years, I have seen the quality of garments go downhill,” Hamed says. “From the type of fabrics used to the way everything is made. So naturally, when I shopped for work and would find something in silk, I would grab it because I knew it had that elegant luxurious quality.”

Silk is also environmentally friendlier than many fabrics. “It has been around for so many centuries, and the way it’s produced has not really changed much,” Hamed explains. “It’s a renewable fiber that’s also biodegradable and requires less water to produce than many other fibers. And, it’s incredibly strong, which extends the lifecycle when made into a garment.”

Hamed dyes the garments in a technique called over-dye, done by hand over the stovetop. “This method gives me control over the color and outcome,” she says. As for the dazzling selection, she adds, “I have always liked the idea of offering a lot of color choices, since colors really reflect your mood, so naturally, over-dying was the right process for me because I wanted to come up with a business model where I didn’t have to keep any inventory. The only inventory I have is a bolt of silk. I won’t have problems of overstock and waste this way.”

Since launching Très Nomad last year, Hamed’s most popular colors have proven to be marigold (golden yellow) and poinsettia (red). “The marigold is a color that suits many different skin tones; it’s such a happy color,” she says. “And the red … well, every girl needs a good red dress!”

If all goes according to plan, Hamed’s clothes will soon come to the bridal world. “We are in the process of adding some bridal styles to the collection, for brides who want something simple and elegant without all the frills,” Hamed shares. “I was recently looking for a dress for one of my styling clients and realized how hard it is to find a simple dress. Not every girl wants the lace, the ruffles.”

Back to that pool and the sunsets, Hamed, of course, is well aware of the escapist appeal that her clothing offers. “A nomad is a person who travels with a purpose to different corners without a permanent abode,” she says. “I design pieces that are easy to travel with and that you can wear from the pool to the dinner table, no matter where you are in the world, and feel effortlessly elegant, like you could fit into the local culture.”

Très Nomad, ICB Building, Studio 271, 480 Gate 5 Road, Sausalito; call ahead for an appointment at 415/373-2539; tresnomad.com.

Food & Drink: Got Gott’s

Remarkably, Gott’s Roadside manages to serve Niman Ranch grass-fed burgers, inspired Ahi Poke Crispy Tacos and an all-vegetarian Impossible Burger without a whiff of pretense. Yes—Gott’s has come to Marin—and their seventh Northern California outlet, set to open on March 1 in Greenbrae’s Bon Air Center, might be their most impressive display of comfort-food-meets-California-fresh to date.

Before it was Gott’s, the original St. Helena roadside burger joint was Taylor’s Refresher, founded in 1949. Brothers Joel and Duncan Gott bought the iconic restaurant in 1999, but didn’t change the name until 2010.

A signature neon ‘EAT’ sign confirms the retro/diner vibe, but everything else is modern, open and airy. Stark white walls, an exhibition kitchen surrounded by glass and plenty of blonde wood tables and metal chairs make for a visually stunning interior. Unlike the other locations, the one at Bon Air features a bar with draft beer options, as well as canned and bottled choices. Extra taps will allow the eatery to rotate seasonal and new microbrews to keep the selection varied. Predominately Napa wines are available by the glass and bottle, and because it’s Marin, Revive Kombucha is also on tap.

And make no mistake—Gott’s isn’t just for burger lovers. Their fresh tacos and inventive salads and sandwiches are not mere afterthoughts. That said, the burgers—including the California, with a fried egg, bacon and arugula, or the Western Bacon Blue Ring, filled with onion rings, Point Reyes blue cheese and bacon—are difficult to resist over a Chicken Kale Caesar.

With a family-friendly menu that features just the right mix of familiar (sweet potato fries) and new (Kimchi Burger), Gott’s is almost certain to be an instant success. Oh, did I mention that they also have soft-serve ice cream and milkshakes in classic flavors?

Gott’s Roadside, opening March 1, Bon Air Center, Greenbrae; gotts.com.

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When you visit the studio that Jasmien Hamed’s clothing brand Très Nomad calls home, the garments immediately evoke a crave for ‘down time.’ Located at the ICB building in Sausalito, the space is filled with airy jumpsuits perfect for riding a camel in Morocco, caftans ideal for lounging poolside and loose dresses calling for sunset strolls along the beaches...

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Remarkably, Gott’s Roadside manages to serve Niman Ranch grass-fed burgers, inspired Ahi Poke Crispy Tacos and an all-vegetarian Impossible Burger without a whiff of pretense. Yes—Gott’s has come to Marin—and their seventh Northern California outlet, set to open on March 1 in Greenbrae’s Bon Air Center, might be their most impressive display of comfort-food-meets-California-fresh to date. Before it was Gott’s,...
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