Cabin Fervor

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Fred Schein had seen this before. The Navy veteran left a military career decades ago, after serving with honor for six years and knowing he’d be outed as a gay man if he didn’t. That was during the Vietnam war era of the 1960s and ’70s. This era has its own wars and dividing lines, including the Trump Administration’s highly publicized ban on transgendered citizens from service in the military.

It’s a difficult political and personal moment for the lifetime conservative and chair of the regional Log Cabin Republicans, which covers Marin, Napa, Sonoma and other Northern California counties. But it’s also a moment of clarity and opportunity for the long-standing gay advocacy organization, whose statewide ranks (265 members across 10 chapters) belie its growing power and influence in the state Republican party.

Founded in San Francisco in the aftermath of an infamous push to ban gays from teaching in public schools in the late 1970s, the Log Cabin Republicans are the nation’s leading advocacy group for gay members of the GOP—and, as of last year, the only Republican gay-rights group in the country that’s been embraced (by and large) by a state party.

As of 2015, the California Log Cabin Republicans are listed as an official volunteer organization within the state party, says Schein, and the state GOP’s leadership has seen its upper ranks swelled by gay Republicans since the 2015 move.

“The focus has been to integrate ourselves into the Republican Party,” says Schein, a Mill Valley resident and retired accountant who worked 40 years for the federal government. The object has been to provide effective leadership, he says, while battling homophobia. “We’ve been successful in California but not successful elsewhere,” says the 79-year-old. “We are very active in the party, and have a number of members on the state Republican board. The vice-chairman of the state party is a member of the Silicon Valley Log Cabin Republicans; the state party’s treasurer is a member of the Ventura chapter.

“In the last few years it has become much of a bigger gay top leadership in Sacramento,” he says—all because the party agreed, in 2015, to allow for an LGBTQ volunteer committee to get voted into the party.

Schein says that 75 percent of state Republicans delegates voted that year to welcome the LCR volunteer committee into the party. He highlights twin messages from the high level of support. “One, it wasn’t 100 percent,” he says with a laugh, “which we hoped for. It did tell us that somewhere above 20 percent of the party is not comfortable with us. On the other side of that, the vote was very telling. Members of our party have a stereotype as mean-spirited, hateful people—that’s one of the bad stereotypes that are given to Republicans, who are often regarded as racists and homophobes. There’s very little opportunity to prove that it’s not true,” he adds. The party’s vote addressed the homophobia question, he says. “It was really quite a moment. And then we moved on.”

The Log Cabin Republicans moved on, he says, to address two major civil rights issues facing gays around the country: Homophobia directed at transgendered citizens and service-members, and housing and insurance discrimination directed at gays.

Donald Trump has moved to ban present and future transgendered persons from serving in the military, a move that Schein says has engendered particular upset among some members of his group. He says that between three to five percent of LCR members are transgendered—including the vice chairperson of Log Cabin Republicans.

The state party doesn’t currently have a formal position on transgender service in the military, or any language about tolerance toward the trans community in its platform. “However, from recent incidents and things that have been coming for some time,” he says, “we support complete acceptance of trans people in all activities, and certainly in the party.” None of that’s part of the Republican state party platform, Schein says.

The Log Cabin Republicans sprung out of Proposition 6, the so-called Briggs Initiative, a 1978 effort to ban gay people from teaching in California public schools. When it was defeated, he recalls, there was an effort to create a formal organization fighting for the rights of conservative gays in the state. Chapters sprung up in San Francisco and Los Angeles, and now the LCR is a well-funded organization with a lobbying office in Washington D.C., staff attorneys and about 30 chapters around the country. And yet with all their firepower, there is not a single openly gay Republican in the state assembly or senate. “We talk about it as Republicans,” Shein says, adding that the discussions center on overcoming stereotypes of the party as being gay-unfriendly.

Schein says that anyone who went to an LCR meeting might be surprised at what they saw and heard. “Most of the time you wouldn’t distinguish us from any other group of Republicans,” he says, except that some of the members are married to one another. They’re focused on high taxes and government pension problems in Marin County, just like the next conservative, not to mention gun rights in California. “But there were issues, and are issues that we have focused on nationally and in California,” he adds. One of the biggest ones is housing and employment discrimination against gays that’s codified in state laws (though not in California). “In 25 or 26 states,” says Schein, “you can be evicted, or fired from a job if you are gay. It can’t happen here, but it can happen in Texas.”

He says he’s seen some GOP congressmen come around on the issue of housing and employment discrimination against gays, but doesn’t expect any national legislation to come out of it. There are currently a handful of housing-and-employment discrimination cases working their way through federal courts and may wind up at the Supreme Court. “We feel strongly about this issue and have for a long time,” says Schein. “We’re waiting to see where the courts come down on it.”

Yes, there’s something a bit ironic about California gay conservatives fighting for housing and employment rights in a state where California GOP congressmen such as Dana Rohrabacher tells the Washington Post that it’s OK to not sell someone a house because they are gay (Rohrabacher said just that last May).

And even though Gov. Gavin Newsom was lead champion for marriage-equality rights as mayor of San Francisco, GOP challenger John Cox’s support for gay marriage and other issues supported by LCR was enough for Cox to get the organization’s endorsement for governor last year. “Unfortunately, he did not win,” says Schein.

Schein’s tuned in to what some may seen as ironic: Being a gay Republican in the era of Trump, given the administration’s hostility toward trans service-members.

But he says he’s with Trump. “I don’t believe he is homophobic,” he says.

Even as the president has banned trans members from the military, Schein notes that Trump’s ambassador to Germany is a gay man. And, he says that when people ask him, “How can you possibly be gay and a conservative,” his standard response is, “Well, how can you not.” He points out that a lot of LGBT members of LCR are in small business and have to face the same taxes and regulations that other Californians deal with.

And then there’s Peter Thiel, the Silicon Valley founder of PayPal who is also gay and an out-front Trump supporter. “We don’t know about Peter,” he says with a laugh. “Peter’s a little quirky. When you’re a multi-billionaire, you can be a little quirky,” he adds as he recounts Thiel (and Ann Coulter’s) short-lived political-action-committee called GOProud. “They’re gone,” he says. “They did cause trouble because they would sometimes side with anti-gay people.”

That’s not the LCR’s game, he notes. By way of demonstration, Schein explains his organization’s posture toward a recent proposed reform of the 1964 federal Fair Housing Act to include sexual orientation as a class of banned discrimination.

The LCR opposed the Democrat-sponsored bill, he says. “There’s problems with it as written. Many members, myself included, feel it’s counterproductive to the LGBT community because of possible quotas. . . . It’s a flawed bill, but the idea of eliminating housing and employment restrictions is something that we support.”

Schein says the LCR doesn’t take a position on an issue unless it directly affects its members. It didn’t, for example, support or oppose cannabis legalization in the state though Schein suspects it’s not an issue with much purchase among his members.

Guns, on the other hand, are another story. “That is a big issue for us,” he says. “Without hesitation, the Log Cabin Republicans are big-time Second Amendment people.” He says this is a big concern among college Republicans he talks to—that California is already too restrictive on gun control. “Several members are very active on this. I get invited by students to Santa Cruz shooting ranges. I can tell you that Young Republicans in college can shoot—at Berkeley, Davis, Sonoma State. We might even be tighter on gun control than the general party.”

Along with talks to college Republicans, Schein’s given presentations in high schools and at community groups. His organization has worked with P-Flag, he says, a liberal-leaning civil rights group that fights for the rights of gay and lesbian parents—but its efforts are generally mocked or discounted by traditional and left-leaning gay-rights groups, he says, especially in San Francisco. But he says the LCR has been vociferous there, and anywhere there’s been bias crimes committed against gays and lesbians. Gay-friendly Guerneville’s been subjected to a rash of anti-gay crimes over the past year and Schein says he supports hate crime laws to address the crimes.

“We deplore it,” he says of bias crimes, “particularly if it was an LGBT population” such as exists in the Russian River population. “We would certainly focus on that—we’ve done that in San Francisco if we thought they weren’t prosecuted. We are ordinary Republicans and ordinary citizens, and no one would find that acceptable no matter what, whether it’s sexual or racial or whatever.”

Even though they’ve been welcome in the state Republican Party, Schein notes that the welcome mat hasn’t been extended from the traditional LGBT community. “There’s an ingrown understanding in the larger LGBT community is politically liberal. And that’s just not true,” he notes, citing data that shows that 20 to 25 percent of gays vote conservative. “A lot of our LGBT people are in small business and understand small business very well,” he says by way of explaining the support.

College Republicans, he says, have been dealing with their own hostility during the Trump era, at Berkeley and at other college campuses where the likes of Coulter have been met with vociferous if not violent counter-protest. He compares college Republicans at Berkeley to LCR members who deal with trans-intolerant elements of their own party. It’s a tough spot to be in. He’s seen how intolerance plays out in the military, first hand. “I thought of making the Navy a career and I think I might have, but I realized at some point I would have been outed,” he recalls. “I didn’t want to put in 12 years just to be thrown out—people were trying to out me. And I did see young sailors have their lives disrupted or destroyed. It really angered me a lot. I can still get angry at it.”

He’s angry about the Trump-driven transgender ban, but Schein is sticking with the GOP. “I talk to the county committees, I travel around the state,” he says. “I like to support the party.”

The Long View

Evidence, quite tangible evidence, of the Bass family’s commitment to the principles of biodynamic farming isn’t hard to find. Just a few minutes into a short stroll through the Port-Bass vineyard, I step right in it.

In a fresh cow patty, that is, and how perfect is that? Luke Bass takes the opportunity to explain that cows are central to the farming philosophy of Rudolf Steiner, the father of biodynamic agriculture, so he’s glad they finally got one. She’s just one brown cow, but her contributions to the fertilization program here have been impressive.

Luke’s parents came out west from upstate New York around 1980—a little late for the back to the land movement, but with a somewhat upgraded business model. They wanted to work on the land in two ways: his father established an architecture studio, and his mother, until five years ago, was the chief tractor driver for the vineyard, says Bass. They bought an old farm that looks carved right into the sylvan hills south of Guerneville, but it’s the other way around—first, the forest was carved out in the 1800s. Then, a family planted grapes just in time for Prohibition. Much of the topsoil washed away into the Russian River long ago, says Bass, so it’s a struggle to get a thousand dollars worth of grapes out of some parts of the vineyard, even after treating them to several thousand dollars more worth of compost. “When I hand this over to my son, it will be more healthy and more vibrant,” Bass says. He takes the long view: “Maybe he’ll get rich!”

Tastings at Porter-Bass are by appointment only and are held in the shade of a walnut tree, with mismatched patio chairs and a wood slab over two barrels. So, what does a ramshackle setup in the woods, native yeast fermentation and no new barrels buy you? Well. Porter-Bass 2016 Chardonnay ($40) is the kind of Chardonnay that California Chardonnay detractors do somersaults for when they don’t know it’s California Chardonnay. It’s 100 percent malolactic fermented, but the lemon-lime acidity, tangy kiwi fruit and native microbial actors only shrug a bit toward caramel aromas, dominated by dried lemon blossom. Their 2016 Pinot Noir ($50) shows woodsy spice, with a barge of black cherry and plum paste fruit steered by a stony hand of minerals. The 2015 Zinfandel ($40) is a “take that, Zin haters” kind of Zin, enticing with lingonberry and olallieberry fruit, green peppercorn, and finishing fresh and firm—tangible evidence that this winery’s practices are yielding even more pleasant results.

Porter-Bass, 11750 Mays Canyon Rd., Guerneville. By appointment only. Tasting fee, $15. 707.869.1475.

Mountaintop Musical

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Scenic vistas and unpredictable weather aren’t the only things you’ll find on Mt. Tam this weekend. Back for its 106th season, the Mountain Play invites you to take in the view and a show atop the county’s tallest peak, where adventurous audiences congregate each summer to partake in this century-old tradition.

It’s a family-friendly, all-day affair complete with picnicking and Champagne (bring your own or buy it there, both are common practice) and a pre-show costume contest. Be sure to dress in layers, though; the 4,000-seat amphitheater offers ample space, but little cover from the elements.

This year those who make the trek will find a high-energy rendition of Grease, one of the longest running shows in Broadway history. The production follows Jim Jacobs and Warren Casey’s original storyline, but incorporates additional songs from the eponymous hit film, including the crowd-pleasing finale “You’re the One That I Want.” (Try not to sing along—I dare you.)

It’s an age-old story steeped in upbeat tunes, stifling machismo and late 1950s Americana: boy meets girl; they fall in love; boy downplays feelings to look cool in front of friends; identity crises ensue; everyone breaks into song and dance. Cue happy ending.

But beneath the surface, Grease is more than a feel-good high school musical. It tackles heavy-hitting themes like peer pressure, teenage rebellion, self-discovery and sexuality in the rock-and-roll era.

Does it succeed? The conclusion is controversial at best, and it’s an interesting choice of material amid the burgeoning “Me Too” movement. To the Mountain Play’s credit, a few minor changes mitigate some outdated characterizations and questionable language.

Director Jay Manley helms a youthful cast who prove up to the task, with noteworthy performances by Anya Absten as sharp-edged Rizzo, Scott Scholes as wannabe rock-star Doody, Phillip Percy Williams as “Teen Angel” and Chelsea Holifield as goody-two-shoes leading lady Sandy D. Talent is in no short supply. (Extra credit to all for continuing undaunted by opening day’s rain-slick stage.)

Ken Rowland’s clever set and Michelle Navarre-Huff’s nostalgic costumes provide an attractively retro aesthetic. Vocals suffer from inconsistent mic levels, washing out some lines and solos and turning ensemble pieces into walls of garbled sound. The cast’s enthusiasm prevails nonetheless, and Nicole Helfer’s choreography keeps things lively and fun.

‘Grease’ runs Saturday and Sunday through June 16 at the Cushing Memorial Amphitheatre. 801 Panoramic Hwy., Mill Valley. 2pm. $20–$45. 415.383.1100

By Nicole Singley

Cooking with Music

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It may not be obvious to the commuters speeding through Novato on Highway 101, but there’s an oasis of live music among the big box stores located on Vintage Way in the HopMonk Tavern, where regional and nationally-touring acts have routinely stopped in for intimate concerts in the tavern’s Session Room and on the patio where an outdoor stage dominates the beer garden.

Much of the music coming to Novato is thanks to independent concert booker and promoter KC Turner, who keeps himself busy by running KC Turner Presents. This summer, KC Turner Presents hosts its sixth annual Cookout Concert Series at HopMonk with top-notch bands and performers appearing in the beer garden on select Sundays through the summer.

“It started off as a fun idea, bring the grill, book some shows,” says Turner. “It’s turned into a really special event, probably my favorite thing to do every year.”

Originally from Missouri, Turner moved to the North Bay in 2005, living in Novato until 2010 when he moved to San Francisco. It was while living in Novato that he first forayed into organizing live shows.

“I found myself always driving to San Francisco to perform open mics,” he says. “There was really nothing happening in Novato.”

Turner’s first shows were open mic events at Finnegan’s Marin in Novato. “Nobody came at first,” he laughs. “But, it began to snowball and became a community event.”

He began working with HopMonk Tavern at their Sonoma location, then moved operations to Novato shortly after that spot opened in 2012. Over the six years of the Cookout Concert Series, the shows have evolved from casual get together into fully produced concerts. “We’ve really upped the ante to make it a professional venues,” says Turner. “That’s so we can get better names to play there a make it a more legit stop on a tour.”

With an eye toward folk and indie-rock, the Cookout Concerts are boasting big names all summer with guitar master Alejandro Escovedo playing with a full band on June 16 and Texas-based “Titan of the Telecaster” Bill Kirchen performing on Jun 30 with several former Commander Cody & His Lost Planet Airmen bandmates including Bobby Black.

Other confirmed shows include Americana duo Birds of Chicago on July 21, jazzy ensemble Charlie Hunter & Lucy Woodward Trio on Aug. 11 punk-meets-folk co-headlining concert with John Doe and Robbie Fulks on Aug. 25, and many more.

“I feel like the lineup is the strongest yet,” says Turner. “And we’ve got the grill going.”

Blame Sally and Peter Mulvey perform in the Cookout Concert Series on Sunday, Jun 9, at HopMonk Tavern, 224 Vintage Way, Novato. Doors, 5pm. $28-$35; $18 meal ticket. All ages. Kcturnerpresents.com.

Have a Heart

I read in the San Francisco Chronicle today the Trump Administration plans to allow medical staff in the nation to deny treatment to lesbians, gays, bisexual or transgender patients because of religious or moral beliefs held by the health care workers; thus allowing doctors, nurses, ambulance drivers, emergency medical technicians, even receptionists to deny care. I thought of my late wonderful lesbian cousin, Denise, who lived in a rural county whose only hospital was religious based, and I wonder if they would have helped her with her ovarian cancer. So, I turned immediately to Stevie Wonder vinyl and his 1976 “Songs in the Key of Life,” put on side one, cut one and listened to:

“Good morn or evening fiends

Here’s your friendly announcer

I have serious news to pass on to every-body

Could mean the world’s disaster

Could change your joy laughter to tears and pain

It’s that

Love’s in need of love today

Don’t delay

Send yours in right away

Hate’s goin’ round

Breaking many hearts

Stop it please

Before it’s gone too far.”

That’s only the first few bars in this remarkable song and album. One wonders how cruel Trump and his staff are willing to go—my bad, we’ve already seen that in their taking babies from refugee parents while sending the parents back to Central America and keeping their children here in cages.

Robert D. Bock

San Rafael

It’s a travesty not to sympathize, but empathize with the plight of the many homeless Bay Area residents who have no choice but to live on the streets. I became unhoused in late 2012 following a seizure and subsequent brain injury from a defective airbag. I was working at a popular paint chain as a delivery driver and understandably could no longer perform my duties with epilepsy. I still work, although I’ve been waiting on a class action lawsuit after my rejection by disability, but these things take lots of time. It’s mortifying that I often must be reduced to the status of a filthy beggar if I want things like toothpaste or co-pays for my medication. But if I may cut this violin solo short, the purpose of this letter is to let everyone know that there are few more difficult ways to live, as should be exemplified by this anecdote:

Having left my backpack, sleeping bag and coat behind a building with little traffic on Sundays, I found my things had been moved, but nothing was missing. A gentleman from inside the building emerged from the front, and I told him I was sorry to leave my items there, but I was having a lot of pain in my back and knees, so it’s difficult to carry all my belongings with me all the time. He said he did not want to just “throw away” these items, as the police had recommended, figuring (correctly) that the owner would come back to reclaim them soon.

To those concerned citizens reading, please treat law enforcement with respect and consideration. It’s your only realistic option, and to those who regard police with nothing but contempt, stop. They are necessary to maintain some semblance of law and order. If you are a member or supporter of law enforcement, try to have a heart.

Tony Good

San Rafael

Hero & Zero

Hero

“If you don’t like to read, you haven’t found the right book.” —J.K. Rowling.

Join the Sausalito Public Library’s annual Summer Reading Program and we’ll bet you’ll find the right book. The program centers on reading challenges for up to age 14. Participants receive a prize when they sign up and another when they read for 12 hours. Additional prizes are awarded for partaking in fun activities, such as hiking and painting. The program is ongoing; children can sign up now and complete the reading and activities by Aug. 31. This year’s program also features a jam-packed schedule of events for kids, including performances by magicians, cupcake decorating, movies and more. The hoopla takes place on Monday through Thursday afternoons, June 10 through June 26.

Exciting activities and events may be the hook to get kids to the library, but the program is designed to keep them reading. Research shows that children lose reading skills during the summer. Solution: Most Marin libraries have a summer reading program for children. Contact your local branch to find out more.

Zero

Multiple search warrants served in San Rafael last week yielded multiple suspects who possessed child pornography. Two men were arrested and others are being investigated with more arrests possible.

Lorenzo Tziquin Tambriz, 30, of San Rafael was arrested for alleged possession of obscene material of a minor. John Cazier Blecka, 64, of San Rafael, was nabbed for alleged sending/selling obscene material of a minor under 18 and possession and distribution of material depicting sex with a minor under 18.

Much of the child pornography trade takes place over the internet, yet the Center for Missing and Exploited Children’s research shows that that less than 5 percent of parents are aware of online sexual exploitation.

email: ni***************@***oo.com

Hero & Zero

Hero
“If you don’t like to read, you haven’t found the right book.” —J.K. Rowling.
Join the Sausalito Public Library’s annual Summer Reading Program and we’ll bet you’ll find the right book. The program centers on reading challenges for up to age 14. Participants receive a prize when they sign up and another when they read for 12 hours. Additional prizes are awarded for partaking in fun activities, such as hiking and painting. The program is ongoing; children can sign up now and complete the reading and activities by Aug. 31. This year’s program also features a jam-packed schedule of events for kids, including performances by magicians, cupcake decorating, movies and more. The hoopla takes place on Monday through Thursday afternoons, June 10 through June 26.
Exciting activities and events may be the hook to get kids to the library, but the program is designed to keep them reading. Research shows that children lose reading skills during the summer. Solution: Most Marin libraries have a summer reading program for children. Contact your local branch to find out more.
Zero
Multiple search warrants served in San Rafael last week yielded multiple suspects who possessed child pornography. Two men were arrested and others are being investigated with more arrests possible.
Lorenzo Tziquin Tambriz, 30, of San Rafael was arrested for alleged possession of obscene material of a minor. John Cazier Blecka, 64, of San Rafael, was nabbed for alleged sending/selling obscene material of a minor under 18 and possession and distribution of material depicting sex with a minor under 18.
Much of the child pornography trade takes place over the internet, yet the Center for Missing and Exploited Children’s research shows that that less than 5 percent of parents are aware of online sexual exploitation.
email: ni***************@***oo.com

Flashback

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50 Years Ago

Don’t get us wrong. Not everything is peachy keen in the county. The schools are suffering badly from a taxpayer revolt, accentuated by many adult’s disfavor with the excesses of some youngsters. Marijuana use is growing like the proverbial weed among the very young, indicating if nothing else that there are plenty of households were parents have botched things up. Confirming this, the number of practicing psychiatrists in Marin has multiplied like crazy. . . . —Editorial, 6/4/69

30 Years Ago

All eyes were on diminutive runner Robyn Root as she pulled off an upset victory over defending champion April Powers in the Sun’s twelfth annual Memorial Day 10K…. Monday’s race starts at the College of Marin track, winds its way through Kentfield, Ross and the San Francisco Theological Seminary in San Anselmo, then returns to the College. . . The Pacific Sun 10K Race this year hosted its most competitive field yet—the strongest its ever been, says race organizer Kees Tuinzing. More than 3,000 entrants competed for $5,000 in prize money and incentives.

—Greg Cahill, June 2, 1989

20 Years Ago

It’s time we confronted the menace on our streets and highways: Honk if you’re sick and tired of dodging SUVs piloted by cellphone-toting nincompoops. While their drivers chatter away, oblivious to other vehicles and pedestrians alike, these bulked-up gas-guzzlers change lanes and bully through traffic with unpredictable abandon. (Surely those gleaming status symbols are equipped with turn signals.) Here’s the deal: If you must barrel around town in an urban assault rig, hang up your damn phone and pay attention. —Mike Thomas, June 2, 1999

Compiled by Alex Randolph

The Lizard King

What’s killing the cinema, #448 in a series: not enough exclamation points in titles, a clear proof of lack of confidence. And bring back shiny subordinate clauses. Dracula: Prince of Darkness has far more heft than plain old Dracula. The very title of Godzilla: King of the Monsters makes up for Michael Dougherty’s bewildering direction. The “who, what and why” isn’t just out the window, it’s over the hills and far away. Sizable info dumps are required because of links to Godzilla (2014), and there’s more cast than anyone knows what to do with: Sally Hawkins and David Strathairn stand around like guests who don’t know anyone at the party.

Raymond Burr was injected into the American version of Ishiro Honda’s original Godzilla, King of the Monsters! (1956; note the exclamation point). “Steve Martin” returned for the 1985 redo, in which the camera closes in on red sleepless eyes, as if Martin had had a long, hard 30 years since first he saw Godzilla. The suggestion of PTSD is back, with paleobiologist Dr. Emma Russell (Vera Farmiga) waking up from the familiar nightmare of a giganotosaurus trampling San Francisco. Farmiga is a favorite tragedian, a woman of constant sorrow who never wears out that mood. Her Emma lives with her daughter Madison (Millie Bobby Brown) who takes the traditional kaiju role of the plucky schoolkid in short pants who understands things the adults fail to take into consideration.

Emma is working with Alan Jonah (Charles Dance), a wealthy eco-terrorist bent on freeing the world’s chimera. Dance is the one who, sighting Godzilla, says, “Long live the king,” as if something were dying inside of him as an actor. It seems counterintuitive to free monsters after one stomps your son, but we get an explanation. Farmiga has one of those effective mad-scientists speeches that starts logical and ends up fanatic. Meanwhile she finds herself re-encountering her estranged ex husband Mark (Kyle Chandler), recruited by the world’s monster-monitoring organization MONARCH.

The animism is crazy. Like any other religious picture, Godzilla: King of the Monsters has some dogma that has to be swallowed whole, like a crane choking down a frog. Earlier versions suggested that the ever-regenerating beast was more than just a raging monster unleashed by the atomic age . . . that he was indeed beyond good and evil—a living warning against destroying the planet with nuclear war and pollution.

The actual battles are highly satisfactory, even if no one gets to shout, “Destroy all monsters!” Happy moments include Godzilla swimming up to glare through a lab’s undersea window; he glows with bioluminescence, like a pissed-off cuttlefish. Even more unnerving is the triple-headed King Ghidorah. “Sounds like gonorrhea,” says Bradley Whitford, there to add some peculiar commentary to the situation in a MONARCH control room.

Ghidorah’s heads don’t just bob at random like a marionette’s head, as in the old days; here they sync up with each other, and they’re able to scowl viciously. Meanwhile the 500-foot pterodactyl Rodan knocks over a Mexican town like a hurricane. (Quetzalcoatl, is that you?) By contrast the mammoth Mothra is clearly on the side of the angels, a glowing Tinkerbelle to Godzilla’s Peter Pan.

All credit to Ken Watanabe reprising his role as Dr. Ishiro Serizawa from Godzilla (2014). He gives the beast all reverence: “We must keep our faith in Godzilla.” Serizawa gives the grimmest warning a Japanese scientist can possibly give in a kaiju: “This is a dangerous path!” Insincerity does not dwell in Watanabe, and his final contact with Godzilla is quite touching, a tribute to the dramatic underpinnings of the better Toho studio movies. If it’s sometimes hard to tell which MONARCH base we’re at, what city we’re in and which direction the monsters are coming from, at least we always know the proper attitude to approach Godzilla: on our knees.

‘Godzilla: King of the Monsters’ is playing in wide release.

Civic Cutie

I’ve been living in Novato for a few years, yet I haven’t taken the time to really explore all that this welcoming town has to offer. I regularly drive by the “historic downtown” sign and wonder what makes this place special.

The city embraces newcomers with a sense of warmth and familiarity. Novato hosts all the romanticized perks of a quintessential small town—homegrown businesses with a personal touch, mom-and-pop eateries that know your order after a few visits and echoes of a rich past that can still be recognized in present day establishments.

Despite the small town vibe, Novato has an impressive diversity of attractions.

The epicenter is Grant Avenue in downtown Novato. The area hosts many of the town’s festivities. The farmers market is a good first stop. Given its weekday schedule ( Tuesdays 4-8pm from May through September) it attracts a mainly local crowd in search of fresh produce while locals and visitors alike will descend on the annual Festival of Art, Wine and Music (this weekend—June 8-9). Nostalgia Days (Aug. 2-3), an event showcasing custom classic cars and golden tunes, is also a draw.

The Novato Parks and Recreation Department holds a free summer concert series on selective Saturday evenings in June, July and August. Novato City Hall transforms its lawn into an entertainment showcase for “Concerts on the Green” and “Hot Amphitheater Nights” cater to a larger crowd in the Hamilton Amphitheater. Bring a picnic and enjoy cocktails provided by Novato’s neighborhood sports bar, The Speakeasy, or cool down with shaved ice courtesy of the onsite Kona Ice Truck.

Don’t worry if you’re only in town on weekdays, you’ll still find plenty to do. Spend your day walking down blocks filled with homey eateries and specialty boutiques. Marvin’s Restaurant serves a great breakfast. Kitschy tchotchke and cheeky quotes adorn the walls of this cozy diner. Sit at the counter and watch the chefs flip your perfectly fluffy pancakes on the griddle or bring your dog along for a bite outside.

Love pastries? Check into Dr. Insomniac’s Fine Coffee and Tea for their signature “scuffin,” a savory scone/muffin hybrid. Rustic Bakery, a Marin County staple serving great sandwiches and organic baked goods, is another go-to lunch destination. If you feel like something spicy, ease on down to Carmen’s La Hacienda. I love their margaritas and generous fajitas.

Don’t take a nap yet, though. Eclectic boutiques like Sage Gallery feature local artists’ hand-crafted jewelry, housewares and other decorative designs. A Sentimental Journey is a vintage lovers dream. I recognized my grandma’s china and was surprised to discover archaic tools used to forge the very streets I’ve been strolling down. Turns out a local dealer travels through Marin and Napa counties in search of “rusty gold” treasures still found in family barns. I didn’t expect to see artifacts from the Novato History Museum for sale in the antique shop, but it seems these items are not as rare as I assumed.

Speaking of which, the museum is a must-see. The former city postmaster’s home now houses a fascinating collection of 19th century artifacts: locally forged ranching tools, household items and odd tokens of the Victorian era, including an unsettling wreath made of human hair collected by family members over the years. My quick history lesson (on the heels of a third grade class) really put things into perspective. Now I understand why cattle graze on hillsides of Olompali State Historic Park, which serve as a backyard of sorts to suburban neighborhoods. They are part of an agricultural tradition that spans generations.

Novato’s birth is a classic California tale. The Gold Rush lured East Coasters to put down roots and start a new life. Soon dairy farms, cattle ranches and apple orchards draped the landscape. As a result, the namesakes of many downtown Novato streets such as DeLong, Reichert and Sweetser cultivated this rural, yet surprisingly metropolitan city. The black and white images in the museum depicting Novato’s transformation over the decades tells the tale well.

While downtown retains remnants of the past, new developments like Vintage Oaks Shopping Center hide all signs of the farms they’ve replaced. Set amongst the many chains and big box stores you’ll find a few locally owned hot spots.

Jennie Low’s has what I think is some of the best Chinese food in Marin County. I like the admittedly Americanized classics: crispy egg rolls served with sweet and sour sauce, orange chicken and chow-mein. Tuttimelon’s gelato and frozen yogurt are a required stop. After making multiple repeat visits, I stopped kidding around and started stocking my freezer with pints of assorted gelato flavors like strawberry fresca, limoncello and orange-chocolate.

For another kind of treat, head to NJ Nails Spa. In addition to colorful and creative nail art, they offer cushy seats and a serene, sterile environment at an affordable price.

Extend your feeling of zen by hopping across the street to my new favorite local hang out: Moylan’s Brewery and Restaurant. Choose from a broad selection of deliciously crafted brews. Park at the bar, watch a ballgame and sip on a smooth Celts Golden Ale or a fruity Framboozled. Try the full-bodied Northern California IPA and Orange and Black (named in honor of the San Francisco Giants.) Want to go bigger? Have a Kilt Lifter Scotch Style Ale, it’s my favorite. If you can’t make up your mind, order the sampler.

What sets Moylan’s apart is that it’s more than a brewery. Loyal patrons have made it a second home. Customers have left their mark on the bar by donating personal memorabilia over the years like sporting awards, military ball caps representing various branches of service and treasured Grateful Dead posters. Amn impressive beer can collection rests on the rafters. I love how you can surprise a friend and sign up on the chalkboard to buy them a beer. A nook on the side of the bar hosts private parties and competitive games of darts.

I happily consider Novato my new home. What strikes me most about the small town is the kindness I have encountered. Whatever establishment I enter, whether I’m there for fun or need to deal with troublesome business, Novato natives impress me with their compassion and sincerity.

Cabin Fervor

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I’ve been living in Novato for a few years, yet I haven’t taken the time to really explore all that this welcoming town has to offer. I regularly drive by the “historic downtown” sign and wonder what makes this place special. The city embraces newcomers with a sense of warmth and familiarity. Novato hosts all the romanticized perks of a...
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