Tall Order

What’s this about American whiskey not having the same good reputation as Scotch whisky, Irish whiskey or even Canadian whisky? Sad to say, it’s true, according to Jeff Duckhorn, head distiller at Redwood Empire Distilling in Graton. But what about the currently unquenchable consumer thirst for American spirits like bourbon and rye? It’s all in a name.

Pipe Dream is the name of Redwood Empire’s newest product, which joins a lineup that includes a rye named Emerald Giant and a blend of straight whiskeys named Lost Monarch. Duckhorn explains that the category “American whiskey” is seen by consumers as somewhat downmarket, even if it contains the very same blend of whiskeys distilled across America in Indiana, Kentucky, Tennessee and California. It’s all more or less the same stuff—except now there’s more of that California stuff.

When I toured this cellar two years ago, it was creaking with crusty old casks that’d spent years in rickhouses back East. This time, it’s brimming with new oak barrels that Duckhorn and team have filled in batches, four at a time. Selecting the oak makes a difference in the glass, says Duckhorn. He likes oak staves that are aged for 36 months before they’re made into a barrel, for a softer whiskey, and he’s even experimenting with Oregon oak. But before we get lost in the woods, Hey, aren’t those whiskeys named after famous North Coast sequoias? Yes, and the labels bear quotes from naturalist John Muir. The distillery connects the themes by partnering with Trees for the Future, which pledges to plant one tree, mainly in tropical areas facing deforestation, for each bottle sold.

While building up stocks for a “bottled in bond” whiskey, which must be distilled in Graton and aged there for four years, Duckhorn blends up to 10 percent of his own “grain to glass” whiskey with the purchased spirit.

Redwood Empire Pipe Dream bourbon ($44.99) has a warm, spicy character, and while dough and caramel round out the palate, it isn’t overly sappy or woody with oak. It’s got some earthy spice, a hint of banana peel, and cinnamon and is a big success on the rocks.

Spice fans will find something to like in the Redwood Empire Emerald Giant rye ($44.99). If not quite like cereal grains fresh-picked off the stalk, crushed between fingers and inhaled, that’s where the spicy grain aroma is going. Dry on the palate, it’s backed up by woody, caramel flavor. Softer yet, with juicy grain flavor and herbal overtones, a small flask of Redwood Empire Lost Monarch blended straight whiskey ($44.99) will make a fine companion on my next walk with nature.

Cat’s Eyes

0

“Where is my cat?”

So begins the saga of Wink, playwright Jen Silverman’s long-gestating play whose title character is said cat. Written in 2013, it’s had several staged readings across the country (including one in 2014 at San Francisco’s Cutting Ball Theater) and is now in its fully produced world premiere run at the Marin Theatre Company.

That opening line is uttered by Sofie (Liz Sklar), an uptight, upper-middle class housewife, to her husband Gregor (Seann Gallagher). Gregor’s cold, emotionless response is a pretty big clue that something’s amiss. A quick blackout takes us to the office of Dr. Frans (Kevin R. Free), where Gregor admits to offing the cat and worse. The good doctor attributes Gregor‘s actions to latent homosexuality and encourages Gregor to take those feelings and just “press them down.” Gregor knows the reasons for his actions go deeper and darker than that.

Frans is also seeing Sofie, who has her own issues and troublesome feelings, which the clueless doctor also suggests she simply press down while she redirects her energies into a hobby like house cleaning.

And then Wink pops back up (in the person of John William Watkins), and hell hath no fury like a cat scorned, or in this case, skinned. He shall have his revenge.

Silverman says her play is about “the possibility of drastic transformation,” and her characters do indeed transform. What lies “beneath the skin,” in contrast to how we portray ourselves and how our feelings and sense of being come to the surface, is at the heart of her script, which brings to mind Yasmina Reza’s God of Carnage. Both shows have a signature scene of destruction, with Silverman’s scene far less disgusting and far more amusing than Reza’s.

That scene (think of Orson Welles’ Citizen Kane when Charles Foster Kane destroys the bedroom of his soon-to-be ex-wife, and just add lots of cat toys) marks the beginning of Sofie’s transformation, and the show leaps into the evern-more- absurd from there.

Often confusing and frequently bizarre, it’s well- acted, and director (and frequent Silverman collaborator) Mike Donahue keeps things zipping along for its very compact, 75-minute running time. Watkins absolutely embodies the physicality and attitude of a cat, and the other three cast members keep their somewhat-cartoonish characters grounded.

Ultimately, Wink comes off somewhere between cutting-edge, New Age theater and a bad college thesis production with a budget. There’s one thing for sure—it’s no Cats. Meow.

‘Wink’ runs Tuesday–Sunday through July 7 at Marin Theatre Company, 397 Miller Ave., Mill Valley. Tuesday – Saturday, 7:30 pm; Saturday & Sunday, 2:00 pm. $25–$60. 415.388.5208. marintheatre.org.

Wrong Turn

I believe it’s Bel Marin Keys (“Cruiser Control,” June 26, 2019). I don’t know of any Bel Mar Keys in Marin. Auto-correct is a terrible tool in journalism. Nice article.

Fred Fendler

Via PacificSun.com

Good Idea!

Thanks for this news article (“In Us We Trust,” June 26, 2019). I didn’t know California was considering a public-banking law. Good idea! I’ll be writing to Sen. McGuire in support of it.

Leslie 2

Via Facebook

Alt-Treatment

Cannabis can deal with the pain shingles causes (“Nerve Agent,” June 26, 2019), but the use of L-lysine can prevent flare-ups from even happening by shutting down the ability of the shingles virus to replicate.

Michael Clark

Via Facebook

The Horrors

It is unfathomable to me that there are those who have lost so much compassion and empathy for their fellow human beings that they legitimize child detention centers and the horrors within on purely political partisanship.

“I screamed at God for the oppressed and incarcerated child

until I saw the oppressed and incarcerated child was God

screaming at me.” —Author Unknown

Dennis Kostecki

Sausalito

In the United States detention means you have to stay after school in the principal’s office for chewing gum in class. It does not mean little kids are now automatically relegated to the lowest caste of untouchables where you will likely remain imprisoned in filth, hunger, and distress as your family goes crazy with fear, until you die or are saved by Democrats.

Marilyn King

Novato

Hero & Zero

Hero

A herd of grazing goats will help reduce wildfire risk outside of Fairfax this week, on the site of the former Sunnyside Nursery. If you’ve never watched these bearded beasts devour all vegetation in sight, grab your kids and get over to 3000 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard to take a gander. You’ll also observe herding dogs working to protect the goats against predators and keep them moving in the right direction.

While the animals are fun to watch, their labors are essential to removing high-risk fire fuel, including shrubs, weeds, tall grasses and invasive plants from the undeveloped 7.7 acre area. Efficient and cost-effective, goat grazing has many other benefits, too. It’s gentle on the land and pollution-free.

Three cheers for the three agencies, Marin County Flood Control and Water Conservation District, Marin County Parks and FireSafe Marin, that chose this natural solution to creating defensible space.

 

Zero

Talk about bad timing. Two women allegedly shoplifted from Sephora in the Vintage Oaks Shopping Center while a Novato police detective was in the store investigating a previous burglary. Oops. The pair reportedly filled bags with cosmetics and left the store without paying.

The detective, who had been in the business office when the theft occurred, was a few steps behind the suspects. Fortunately, an observant shopper saw the women flee and provided the detective with the license plate number of the getaway car.

Novato police dispatchers broadcasted the info to law enforcement across the county. The Central Marin Police took up the chase when they saw the suspect vehicle on 101 and stopped them at the Spencer Avenue exit in Sausalito. Destiny Shree Gates, 18, of Richmond and a juvenile, 17, of Vallejo, were arrested for alleged burglary, grand theft and conspiracy, said police.

Sephora employees report that the two alleged thieves stole almost $2,500 worth of merchandise.

 

email: ni***************@ya***.com

 

Hero & Zero

Hero

A herd of grazing goats will help reduce wildfire risk outside of Fairfax this week, on the site of the former Sunnyside Nursery. If you’ve never watched these bearded beasts devour all vegetation in sight, grab your kids and get over to 3000 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard to take a gander. You’ll also observe herding dogs working to protect the goats against predators and keep them moving in the right direction.

While the animals are fun to watch, their labors are essential to removing high-risk fire fuel, including shrubs, weeds, tall grasses and invasive plants from the undeveloped 7.7 acre area. Efficient and cost-effective, goat grazing has many other benefits, too. It’s gentle on the land and pollution-free.

Three cheers for the three agencies, Marin County Flood Control and Water Conservation District, Marin County Parks and FireSafe Marin, that chose this natural solution to creating defensible space.

 

Zero

Talk about bad timing. Two women allegedly shoplifted from Sephora in the Vintage Oaks Shopping Center while a Novato police detective was in the store investigating a previous burglary. Oops. The pair reportedly filled bags with cosmetics and left the store without paying.

The detective, who had been in the business office when the theft occurred, was a few steps behind the suspects. Fortunately, an observant shopper saw the women flee and provided the detective with the license plate number of the getaway car.

Novato police dispatchers broadcasted the info to law enforcement across the county. The Central Marin Police took up the chase when they saw the suspect vehicle on 101 and stopped them at the Spencer Avenue exit in Sausalito. Destiny Shree Gates, 18, of Richmond and a juvenile, 17, of Vallejo, were arrested for alleged burglary, grand theft and conspiracy, said police.

Sephora employees report that the two alleged thieves stole almost $2,500 worth of merchandise.

 

email: ni***************@ya***.com

 

Flashback

0

50 Years

Ago

What this country needs is a Good Nickel Crusade. We need a common cause which can unite us all in these times of division and crisis. At first blush this might seem an impossible order. At a time when not everybody is in favor of God, Motherhood, Apple Pie and the Flag, is there anything on which we can all agree? There is. Everybody is against hippies. —July 2, 1969

40 Years

Ago

Polish those bicycles and shop for a moped—Golden Gate Transit might be out on a strike Monday. Bridge district workers, demanding a 10.7 percent wage increase have threatened to strike Sunday. The strike would shut down bus service and ferries as well as the toll booths, but toll takers would be replaced by supervisory personnel, according to the district. The requested 10 percent wage increase would cost the district $1.3 million a year and presumably would necessitate a toll and fare increase. —June 29, 1979

30 Years

Ago

Made by Pixar, a computer graphics firm located in San Rafael, Tin Toy walked away with this year’s Academy Award for best animated short —the first time the Oscar has gone to a computer-animated film… Computer generated graphics is a rapidly advancing technology, and Pixar has remained at the cutting edge. That’s thanks, in part, to the work of the animation team. The company originated as the computer graphics research division at Lucasfilm. The division’s early work included sequences for Return of the Jedi, Young Sherlock Holmes and Star Trek II: The Wrath of Khan. In 1986 Lucasfilm sold off its computer graphics division to a group of purchasers that included the division’s own employees (who now own 30 percent) and Apple Computers co-founder Steven Jobs (70 percent). —June 30, 1989

Compiled by Alex Randolph

Spider-Man Abroad

It’s not yet July 4th, and audiences can already experience Summer Movie Leakage. Spider-Man: Far From Home commences with Nick Fury (Samuel L. Jackson) and Agent Maria Hill (Cobie Smulders) examining a trashed Mexican village. Is this the same town Rodan took apart in Godzilla, King of Monsters? In fact, a windstorm is the culprit: “The cyclone had a face,” Fury rumbles. The giant wind beast returns and coalesces like a thunderhead, and out of the sky comes … a guy named Quentin Beck, aka Mysterio (Jake Gyllenhaal), a flying superman in a glass helmet, a denizen of a parallel Earth come to save our own.

Prior to the release of Spider-Man: Far From Home, it was considered a spoiler to name the deceased hero who went to his reward in Avengers: Endgame—the second most popular film of all time. Anyway, his loss hangs heavy over the film, and memorials abound. None are clumsier than the opening, a high school video tribute with flickering candles and Whitney Houston’s “I Will Always Love You” ululating in the background.

Following the loss of his knight, the squire Peter Parker (the eager and charming Tom Holland) longs to be the 16-year-old neighborhood hero he once was, instead of an Avenger. It being summer, he’s slated for a school vacation in Europe’s most decorative capitals. This gives him a chance to court the brown-eyed and diffident MJ, but his comic relief-buddy Ned (Jacob Batalon) advises him to play the field: “We’re American bachelors!” Familiar teenage summer vacation-stuff ensues in the European canals and castles, with Curb Your Enthusiasm’s J.B. Smoove and Martin Starr as the inept chaperones. Parker draws the attention of new good-cop (Jon Favreau’s Happy Hogan) and bad-cop (naturally, Samuel L.) mentors, and it’s off to Venice, Prague and London, where each city is besieged by an uninspiring kaiju that must be wrestled into submission by Spider-Man’s new fishbowl-headed pal from the multiverse.

Would that the big plot twist arrived just in time, like Spider-Man himself. Long-time students of the lore will see it coming (though it’d be fun to watch the amazement of a nearby child). The movie finally gets an infusion of gusto when Spider-Man gets caught in a new kind of fight. He’s psyched out, boggled by illusions, forced through a horror-maze of guilt and anxieties and given an unexpected goodbye kiss … from a Thalys train travelling at 200 mph.

This movie is full of things that don’t get the emphasis they deserve. We hear how Aunt May (Marisa Tomei) rematerialized after Thanos’ Snap, into the middle of what sounds like a bedroom farce. She describes the scene awkwardly at a public meeting, instead of letting us see it staged. We could have had a few more minutes with the ever-lissome Tomei.

As MJ, Zendaya gives a good impression of miffed, off-kilter appeal. She uses the defense of a good offense, which is the shield of every pretty and intelligent 16-year-old. But the dialogue reiterates the best moments of Spider-Man: Homecoming. She should have more eye rolls and less talk. To be fair, she endures nothing like the making over of the odd girl Ally Sheedy in The Breakfast Club.

Spider-Man: Far From Home gives MJ more agency during a final careen through Manhattan. It’s not a typical ride on a superhero’s powerful shoulder, as it was in 2002, but a terrifying trip MJ vows never to do again. To his credit, director Jon Watts takes the odd route whenever possible; he basks in the fun of hanging with teen pedants smart enough to tell a spear from a halberd. Sometimes it seems Watts has an altar somewhere with a DVD collection of Freaks and Geeks on it surrounded by candles and incense. Still, there’s relevance to burn in Spider-Man: Far From Home’s payoff in villainy; relevance in the distraction and deep fakery—with arsonists playing firemen—and in the smoke and mirrors.

‘Spider-Man: Far From Home’ is playing in wide release.

Fraternité Fries

The Paris Metro it may not be, but Sonoma–Marin Area Rail Transit has one feature in common with that other transit system: It’ll take you to a really good brasserie.

It’s a smart way to catch a six o’clock dinner reservation in Larkspur from points north, without the hassle of rush hour traffic. The only hitch is the so-called “last mile” of the trip, or rather, about five miles, in this example. But they’re easily covered on à bicyclette, by way of mostly off-street paths between the San Rafael station and Left Bank Brasserie in downtown Larkspur—a commercial stretch of such brevity that I cycle right on by the big, and indeed blue, Blue Rock Inn building on my first go-round.

It’s entirely unnecessary to carry a baguette under my arm on this trip, because the Brasserie has that covered with fresh white and wheat slices from Acme Bread. Served with butter. Creamy butter.

Speaking of butter, the requisite escargot ($12) are cooked in Pernod garlic butter, and what do they say about what to do, when you’re in Paris?

Sorry, no. Because this is still Larkspur, and because I’m an unadventurous rube culinarily speaking, and also because during the previous day’s media lunch someone mentioned eating banana slugs on a juvenile dare, I pass on the Gallic specialty. It helps that chef David Bastide nudges me toward the smoked salmon rillette ($15) appetizer, a dish whose only defect is not offering enough toast points for the veritable salad of salmon with cucumber, tomato and onion.

Bastide, whose full title is Maître Cuisinier de France, happens to be in town to help the kitchen with the new, seasonally-focused menu. I take the opportunity to ask, with generous lack of couth, “So, someone referred to Left Bank as a chain—what do you call it?”

Bastide explains that two locations closed after the 2008 financial kerplop, and only two other Left Bank restaurants remain—in San Jose and Menlo Park. Larkspur is the flagship location, this year celebrating its 25th anniversary. The restaurant sure looks at home in this historic spot, and so do the patrons, settling in at tables, booths, outdoor seating overlooking Magnolia Avenue and at the bar beneath a wide selection of spirits (my semi-dry Manhattan was spot-on as ordered) and a silent TV screen.

This is no restaurant review based on three anonymous visits—I don’t own enough wigs, not to mention that the critical returns on investment would diminish quickly, as I swoon over any salad that sports an egg, settled upon frisée, that’s executed to fool me into thinking it’s a dollop of fresh cream. Enter the Lyonnaise salad ($11).

And what’s this—an oversized, extra crispy bacon lardon? No. Enter the crouton.

The humble crouton is what gets me, in the end. Being of the fourth estate, I come from a station in society where croutons are dried-out crusts of bread. Maybe herbed, when fancy. But this, this rich cube of indulgently saturated bready goodness, which is not oily, but improbably light and crunchy— can this be my pièce de résistance? Or is it that the samples of Provençal rosé and Sancerre my efficient and affable server drops by with each course are now talking?

The wine list is broad, but strictly limited to California and France. Thus, there are two Malbecs—but from Cahors. And three Zinfandels, a win for the West Coast.

Twenty wines-by-the-glass are priced from $10 to $19. Chardonnay fans will find Faively Mercury ($58) and Patz & Hall Dutton Ranch ($70), among other options. A glass of basic Bourgogne rouge from Frederic Magnien ($15) is almost too light and fruity for pairing with beef Bourgignon ($29). Trout almondine ($23) and lamb shank Provençal ($29) also sound enticing. While the burger Américain ($15) is suspiciously more economical than the Frenchified raclette burger ($23), I have to go with that classic of French country cuisine, with which I have some experience. Mostly experience in ruining—even the vegetarian versions.

This beef stew of Burgundy sports halved baby carrots, button mushrooms, pearl onions, and slices of fingerling potatoes—nothing crazy here, all classic. Yet, the proof is in the pudding, or rather, the sauce, which is not like a flour-stuffed pudding at all, but like an umami dream team of wine and beef combining to make a light, intensely-flavored sauce. Quelle perfection. Alas, it’s going to take more than five miles to burn off this much bonne cuisine.

Not a Lark

Nothing makes a pleasant village even more pleasant, than the marquee of a movie theater. The first light on in the evening and the last light to go dark, it’s a particularly fine sight on a summer night. The Arteco Lark Theater, a part of Larkspur for more than 80 years, is squeezed into a corner at the north end of the five-block-long stroll on Magnolia Avenue. It’s the kind of small neighborhood theater that’s gone extinct in most of the nation. It thrives here as a nonprofit, owned and operated by members, reopened 15 years ago this week.

The nearly 50-year-old Lark closed in the mid 1980s because of competition from home video and multiplexes. When it faced demolition in the early 1990s, Larkspur local Bernice Baeza organized an LLC to keep the then-closed theater from being gutted. The “Save the Lark” work continued after her unexpected death. Today, the Lark is still being renovated. Fundraising paid for a new HVAC system, and a parklet will soon open next to the theater so people can sun themselves before a show. This single-screen theater of less than 250 seats does everything: it has rotating movie programs, leases out the space for private parties and community functions and serves as a venue for high school classes. The Lark also runs a popular discount show: $5 plus a free small popcorn before 11am.

Matt Molloy, the Lark’s GM, worked at theaters from Los Angeles to Santa Cruz before he started at the Lark five years ago. Molloy meets with reps of other small, beautiful theaters at Utah’s Art House Convergence in January, held in advance of the Sundance Film Festival. Last year some 700 exhibitors and programmers met to discuss strategies to surviving the era of peak television. Molloy said that the community is essential for supporting these single-screen theaters. “The businesses here all help each other out,” he says.

Before the movie begins, there are advertisements for neighboring businesses—the Left Bank Brasserie, the Farm House Local and the Larkspur branch of Perry’s restaurant, operating in the site of the old Lark Creek Inn. In addition, Molloy notes, “We have the best volunteers around. The staff has very little turnover. The customers recognize the staff and vice versa.” Friends of the Lark come from as far away as Sacramento and Portland.

When digital cinema became a cost-effective replacement for 35mm film several years ago, small single-screens around the country had to dig deep to purchase the new technology. “Digital was the downfall for many theaters,” Molloy says, “but the Lark has been on a resurgence ever since.”

The stage lighting and sound system doesn’t eclipse the view of the screen or the gold-brocaded proscenium arch. Greek key pattern border the wine-colored walls. The current 4pm show is the independent documentary Be Natural: The Untold Story of Alice Guy-Blache. As narrated by Jodie Foster, it’s Pamela B. Green’s deeply researched account of a French pioneer of early cinema. Seeing this crowd-sourced film was enlightening enough. Seeing it in a crowd-sourced theater with decades of history behind it was where the real magic came in.

Seeing Is Believing

The future of misinformation is here. It reared its ugly head in May in the form of a doctored video of House Speaker Nancy Pelosi—manipulated to show her slurring her words, as if she were drunk. The trick was simple; the footage of Pelosi, speaking at a conference on May 22, was merely slowed down 25 percent. In the world of video editing, it’s child’s play.

The video went viral shortly after Pelosi said that Donald Trump’s family should stage an intervention with the president “for the good of the country.” The faked video surfaced on Facebook, where it was viewed more than 2 million times within a few hours. It was also shared by Trump lawyer and apologist Rudy Guiliani with a caption (since deleted) that read: “omg, is she drunk or having a stroke?” followed by “She’s drunk!!!”

The incident called to mind an even cruder video dust-up in 2018 involving footage of CNN reporter Jim Acosta, manipulated to give the impression that he had behaved aggressively against a White House intern at a press conference. The deceptive clip was actually released by press secretary Sarah Huckabee Sanders.

The country’s most powerful people lending their authority to objectively bogus video as a political weapon is enraging enough. But compared to what’s coming over the digital media horizon, the Acosta and Pelosi videos will soon look and feel as antique as a Buster Keaton short alongside Avengers: Endgame.

Cue Bachman-Turner Overdrive’s “You Ain’t Seen Nothin’ Yet.” Welcome to the Age of Deepfakes.

The term “deepfakes” is a portmanteau, a reference to artificial intelligence-assisted machine learning, a.k.a. “deep learning.” It’s an emerging technology that can potentially put the kind of highly realistic video and audio manipulation once only accessible to Hollywood in the hands of state intelligence agencies, corporations, hackers, pornographers or any 14-year-old with a decent laptop and a taste for trolling. In its most obvious application, a deepfake can create an utterly convincing video of any celebrity, politician or even any regular citizen doing or saying something that they never said or did. (For the record, the Pelosi video is not technically a deepfake; it is to deepfakes what a stick figure drawing would be to a high Renaissance painting).

The buzz about deepfakes has penetrated nearly every realm of the broader culture—media, academia, tech, national security, entertainment—and it’s not difficult to understand why. In the constant push-pull struggle between truth and lies, already a confounding problem of the Internet Age, deepfakes represent that point in the superhero movie when the cackling bad guy reveals his doomsday weapon to the thunderstruck masses.

“If 9/11 is a 10,” says former White House cybersecurity director Andrew Grotto, “and let’s say the Target Breach (a 2013 data breach at the retailer that affected 40 million credit card customers) is a 1, I would put this at about a 6 or 7.”

Deepfake videos present a fundamentally false version of real life. It’s a deception powerful enough to pass the human mind’s Turing test—a lie on steroids.

In many cases, it’s done for entertainment value and we’re all in on the joke. In Weird Al Yankovic’s face-swap masterpiece, “Perform This Way”—a parody of Lady Gaga’s “Born This Way”—nobody actually believes that Weird Al has the body of a female supermodel. No historian has to debunk the idea that Forrest Gump once met President John F. Kennedy.

But the technology has now advanced to the point where it can potentially be weaponized to inflict lasting damage on individuals, groups, and even economic and political systems. For generations, video and audio have enjoyed almost absolute credibility. Those days are coming to an abrupt and disorienting end. Whether it’s putting scandalous words into the mouth of a politician or creating a phony emergency or crisis just to sow chaos, the day is fast approaching when deepfakes could be used for exploitation, extortion, malicious attack or even terrorism.

For a small group of otherwise enormously privileged individuals, that day is already here. If you’re part of that tiny elite of female celebrities deemed sexually desirable on the Internet—think Emma Watson, Jennifer Lawrence, Gal Gadot—you wake up every morning knowing you’re a click or two away from seeing yourself in explicit porn in which you never participated. Scarlett Johansson is the most highly paid woman in Hollywood and one of the most famous people in the world. But with all that cultural power, she can’t stop fake porn that uses her image. “Trying to protect yourself from the internet and its depravity,” she told the Washington Post, “is basically a lost cause.”

Of course, creating fake videos that destroy another person’s reputation, whether it’s to exact revenge or ransom, is only the most individualized and small-scale nightmare of deepfakes. If you can destroy one person, why not whole groups or categories of people? Think of the effect of a convincing but completely fake video of an American soldier burning a Koran, or a cop choking an unarmed protester, or an undocumented immigrant killing an American citizen at the border. Real violence could follow fake violence. Think of a deepfake video that could cripple the financial markets, undermine the credibility of a free election, or impel an impetuous and ill-informed president to reach for the nuclear football.

Why now?

Ultimately, the story of deepfakes is a story of technology reaching a particular threshold. At least since the dawn of television, generations have grown up developing deeply sophisticated skill sets in interpreting audiovisual imagery. When you spend a lifetime looking at visual information on a screen, you get good at “reading” it, much like a lion “reads” the African savanna.

Discerning the real from the phony isn’t merely a vestige of the video age. It was a challenge even when the dominant media platform wasn’t the screen but the printed word. Psychologist Stephen Greenspan, author of the book Annals of Gullibility, says that the tensions between credulity and skepticism have been baked into the American experience from the very beginning.

“The first act of public education was in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, long before the country even existed,” said Greenspan whose new book Anatomy of Foolishness is due out in August. “The purpose of that act was to arm children against the blandishments and temptations of Satan. It was even called ‘The Old Deluder Act.’”

The advent of still photography, movies, television and digital media each in turn added a scary new dimension to the brain’s struggle to tell true from false. At one point, video technology was able to create realistic imagery out of whole cloth, but it quickly ran into a problem known as the “uncanny valley effect,” in which the closer technology got to reality, the more dissonant small differences would appear to a sophisticated viewer. Deepfakes, as they now exist, are still dealing with that specific problem, but the fear is that they will soon transcend the uncanny valley and be able to produce fake videos that are indistinguishable from reality.

“It would be a disaster,” Greenspan says of the specter of deepfakes, “especially if it’s used by unscrupulous political types. It’s definitely scary because it exploits our built-in tendencies toward gullibility.”

How they work

Deepfakes are the product of machine learning and artificial intelligence. The applications that create them work from dueling sets of algorithms known as generative adversarial networks, or GANS. Working from a giant database of video and still images, this technology pits two algorithms—one known as the “generator” and the other the “discriminator”—against each other.

Imagine two rival football coaches, or chess masters, developing increasingly complicated and sophisticated offensive and defensive schemes to answer each other. The GANS process works when the generator and discriminator learn from each other, creating a kind of technological “natural selection.” This evolutionary dynamic accelerates the means by which the algorithm can fool the human eye and ear.

In its current iteration, the software is still very data-intensive. The more images it has to work with, the more convincing the end product will be. That means hundreds, if not thousands of still images are needed to capture every subtlety of lighting, face angle, pose, expression and skin tone. When you’re face-swapping Steve Buscemi and Jennifer Lawrence for a laugh, those subtleties are not a big deal. When you’re trying to fool the brain, which is designed to detect the real from the imaginary, you’re playing on a much more demanding level of deception. (Even this hurdle may be fast becoming obsolete. Last month, in a scary development, it was reported that Samsung had developed an AI application that could create a deepfake from a single photo.)

Naturally, the entertainment industry has been on the forefront of this technology, and the current obsession with deepfakes might have begun with the release in December 2016 of Rogue One, the Star Wars spin-off that featured a CGI-created image of the late Carrie Fisher as a young Princess Leia. A year later, an anonymous Reddit user posted some deepfakes celebrity porn videos with a tool he created called FakeApp. Shortly after that, tech reporter Samantha Cole wrote a piece for Vice’s Motherboard blog on the phenomenon headlined “AI-assisted Fake Porn is Here and We’re all Fucked.” A couple of months later, comedian and filmmaker Jordan Peele created a video in which he put words in the mouth of former President Obama as a way to illustrate the incipient dangers of deepfakes. Reddit banned subreddits having to do with fake celebrity porn, and other platforms, including PornHub and Twitter, banned deepfakes as well. Since then, everyone from PBS to Samantha Bee has dutifully taken a turn in ringing the alarm bells to warn consumers (and, probably, to inspire mischief-makers).

The deepfakes panic had begun.

Freak Out?

Twenty years ago, the media universe—a Facebook-less, Twitter-less, YouTube-less media universe, we should add—bought into a tech-inspired doomsday narrative known as “Y2K,” which posited that the world’s computer systems would seize up, or otherwise go haywire in a number of unforeseen ways, the minute the clock turned over to Jan. 1, 2000. Y2K turned out to be a giant nothing-burger and now it’s merely a punchline for comically wrongheaded fears.

In this case, Y2K is worth remembering as an illustration of what can happen when the media pile on to a tech-apocalypse narrative. The echoing effects can overestimate a perceived threat and even create a monsters-under-the-bed problem. In the case of deepfakes, the media freak-out might also draw attention away from a more nuanced approach to a coming problem.

Riana Pfefferkorn is the associate director of surveillance and cybersecurity at Stanford’s Center for Internet and Society. She’s been at the forefront of what deepfakes will mean to the legal system. “I don’t think this is going to be as big and widespread thing as people fear it’s going to be,” she says. “But at the same time, there’s totally going to be stuff that none of us see coming.”

The ramifications of deepfakes showing up in the legal ecosystem are profound. Video and audio have been used in legal proceedings for decades, and the veracity of such evidence has rarely been challenged. “It’s a fairly low standard to get

admitted so far,” said Pfefferkorn. “One of the things I’m interested in exploring is whether deepfake videos will require changing the rules of evidence, because the threshold now is so low.”

But deepfakes won’t only have the potential to wreak havoc in the evidentiary stages of criminal and civil court. It could have effects in probate and securities law—to fake a will, for example, or to get away with fraud. Pfefferkorn is calling on the legal system to make its adjustments now, and she’s confident it will. “When (Adobe’s) Photoshop came out in the ’90s,” she said, “a lot of news stories then talked about the doctoring of photos and predicted the downfall of truth. The courts figured that out and adapted, and I think we’ll probably survive this one as well.”

What’s more troubling is the other side of the deepfakes conundrum—not that fake videos will be seen as real, but that real ones will be seen as fake. It’s a concept known as the “Liar’s Dividend,” a term championed by law professors Danielle Citron and Robert Chesney who’ve been the leading thinkers in academia on the deepfakes issue. “One of the dangers in a world where you can accuse anything of being fake is the things you can get people to disbelieve,” said Pfefferkorn. “If people are already in this suspicious mindset, they’re going to bring that with them in the jury box.”

Andrew Grotto is a research fellow at Stanford’s Hoover Institute and a research scholar at the Center for International Security and Cooperation, also at Stanford. Before that, he served as the senior director for cybersecurity policy at the White House in the Obama and Trump administrations. Grotto’s interest in deepfakes is in how they will affect the electoral process and political messaging.

Grotto has been to Capitol Hill and to Sacramento to talk to federal and state lawmakers about the threats posed by deepfakes. Most of the legislators he talked to had never heard of deepfakes and were alarmed at what it meant for their electoral prospects.

“I told them, ‘Do you want to live and operate in a world where your opponents can literally put words in your mouth?’ And I argued that they as candidates and leaders of their parties ought to be thinking about whether there’s some common interest to develop some kind of norm of restraint.”

Grotto couches his hope that deepfakes will not have a large influence on electoral politics in the language of the Cold War. “There’s almost a mutually-assured-destruction logic to this,” he says, applying a term used to explain why the U.S. and the Soviet Union didn’t start a nuclear war against each other. In other words, neither side will use such a powerful political weapon because they’ll be petrified it will then be used against them. Such a notion seems out of tune in the Trump Era. And political parties don’t have to use deepfake videos in campaigns when there are countless partisan sources, many of them sketchy, who will do it for them.

One of the politicians that Grotto impressed in Sacramento was Democrat Marc Berman, who represents California’s 24th District (which includes Palo Alto and the southern half of the Peninsula) in the state assembly. Berman chairs the Assembly’s Elections and Redistricting Committee, and he’s authored a bill that would criminalize the creation or the distribution of any video or audio recording that is “likely to deceive any person who views the recording” or that is likely to “defame, slander or embarrass the subject of the recording.” The new law would create exceptions for satire, parody or anything that is clearly labeled as fake. The bill (AB 602) is set to leave the judiciary committee and reach the Assembly floor this month.

“I tell you, people have brought up First Amendment concerns,” Berman says over the phone. “It’s been 11 years since I graduated law school, but I don’t recall freedom of speech meaning you are free to put your speech in my mouth.”

The Electronic Frontier Foundation, which for almost three decades has fought government regulation in the name of internet civil liberties, is pushing back against any legislative efforts to deal with deepfakes. In a media statement, the EFF conceded that deepfakes could create mischief and chaos, but contended that existing laws pertaining to extortion, harassment and defamation are up to the task of protecting people from the worst effects.

Berman, however, is having none of that argument: “Rather than being reactive, like during the 2016 [presidential] campaign when nefarious actors did a lot of bad things using social media that we didn’t anticipate—and only now are we reacting to it—let’s try to anticipate what they’re going to do and get ahead of it.”

Good & Evil

Are there potentially positive uses for deepfake technology? In the United States of Entertainment, the horizons are boundless, not only for all future Weird Al videos and Star Wars sequels, but for entirely new genres of art yet to be born. Who could doubt that Hollywood’s CGI revolution will continue to evolve in dazzling new directions? Maybe there’s another Marlon Brando movie or Prince video in our collective future.

The Electronic Frontier Foundation touts something called “consensual vanity or novelty pornography.” Deepfakes might allow people to change their physical appearances online as way of identity protection. There could be therapeutic benefits for survivors of sexual abuse or PTSD to have video conferencing therapy without showing their faces. Some have speculated on educational uses—creating videos of, say, Abraham Lincoln reading his Gettysburg Address and then regaling Ms. Periwinkle’s fifth-grade class with stories from his youth.

Stanford’s Grotto envisions a kind of “benign deception” application that would allow a campaigning politician to essentially be in more than one place at a time, as well as benefits in get-out-the-vote campaigns.

But here at the top of the roller coaster, the potential downsides look much more vivid and prominent than any speculative positive effect. Deepfakes could add a wrinkle of complication into a variety of legitimate pursuits. For example, in the realm of journalism, imagine how the need to verify some piece of video or audio could slow down or stymie a big investigation. Think of what deepfakes could do on the dating scene, in which online dating is already consumed with all levels of fakeness. Do video games, virtual reality apps and other online participatory worlds need to be any more beguiling? Put me in a virtual cocktail party with my favorite artists and celebrities, and I’ll be ready to hook up the catheter and the IV drip to stay in that world for as long as possible.

If the Internet Age has taught us anything, it’s that trolls are inevitable, even indomitable. The last two decades have given us a dispiriting range of scourges, from Alex Jones to revenge porn. Trolling has even proven to be a winning strategy to win the White House.

“Let’s keep walking down the malign path here,” said former White House cybersecurity chief Grotto from his Stanford office, speculating on how deep the wormhole could go. Grotto brings up the specter of what he calls “deepfake for text.” He says it’s inevitable that soon there will be AI-powered chatbots programmed to rile up, radicalize and recruit humans to extremist causes.

“People watch videos, sure,” Grotto says. “But mostly what really gets people over the edge is chatting with someone who is trying to make the case for them to join the cause. Instead of passively watching YouTube or exchanging messages on Facebook, you now have the ability to create a persona to sit in front of somebody for hours and try to persuade them of this or that.”

What now?

In addressing the threat of deepfakes, most security experts and technologists agree that there is no vaccine or silver bullet. Watermarking technology could be inserted into the metadata of audio and video material. Even in the absence of legislation, app stores would probably require such watermarking be included on any deepfake app. But how long would it be before someone figured out a way to fake the watermark? There’s some speculation that celebrities and politicians might opt for 24/7 “lifelogging,” digital auto-surveillance of their every move to give them an alibi against any fake video.

Deepfakes are still in the crude stages of development. “It’s still hard to make it work,” Grotto says. “The tools aren’t to the point where someone can just sit down without a ton of experience and make something” convincing.

He said the 2020 presidential election may be plagued by many things, but deepfakes probably won’t be one of them. After that, though? “By 2022, 2024, that’s when the tools get better. That’s when the barriers to entry really start to drop.”

This moment, he says, isn’t a time to panic. It’s a time to develop policies and norms to contain the worst excesses of the technology, all while we’re still at the top of the roller coaster. Grotto says convincing politicians and their parties to resist the technology, developing legal and voluntary measures for platforms and developers, and labeling and enforcing rules will all have positive effects in slowing down the slide into deepfake hell.

“I think we have a few years to get our heads around it and decide what kind of world we want to live in, and what the right set of policy interventions look like,” he says. “But talk to me in five years, and maybe my hair will be on fire.”

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