.Winemaker Ryan Zepaltas of Copain

When Ryan Zepaltas achieved what he calls his “dream job” in 2018, becoming winemaker and general manager at Copain, he brought with him nearly two decades of experience crafting exceptional wine.

His expertise was honed through years of dedicated work at Siduri, where he began in the summer of 2000. The then-emerging pinot noir producer, operating from a modest Santa Rosa warehouse, provided the perfect environment for Zepaltas to immerse himself in his favorite varietal.

Under the mentorship of founders Adam and Dianna Lee, whose philosophy centered on small-batch, terroir-driven winemaking, he evolved from cellar master through assistant winemaker to eventually helm production over two transformative decades.

That experience led him in 2004 to establish Zepaltas Wines, a boutique label dedicated to small-lot expressions of cool-climate varietals including pinot noir, syrah, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. This venture, which earned critical recognition, paved the way for the approach he would later bring to Copain.

But this journey into the wine world was quite unconventional, beginning far from California’s vineyards. Raised in Wisconsin’s beer-centric culture, Zepaltas had little interest in wine until circumstances intervened. After relocating to Sebastopol to pursue skateboarding dreams, financial reality struck hard. A fortuitous harvest position at La Crema ignited his curiosity about winemaking, leading to a pivotal stint at New Zealand’s Villa Maria that crystallized his calling.

Amber Turpin: How did you get into this work?

Ryan Zepaltas: Totally by accident. I moved to California to focus on skateboarding, but it wasn’t paying the bills. I heard from a family friend that I could work harvest to make some quick cash, and I wanted to stay in California. I met a guy who ran a cellar, and he gave me a shot as an intern, and I was hooked on wine instantly.

Did you ever have an ‘aha’ moment with a certain beverage? If so, tell us about it.

I was gifted a ticket to a GAJA Barolo retrospective tasting early on in my career. I had no idea what I was in for, but tasting perfectly aged barolo was a euphoric experience. I learned that wine can go levels beyond just being delicious and enjoyable. Great wine can truly be magical and life changing.

What is your favorite thing to drink at home?

Besides coffee, crisp, white wines from all over the world.

Where do you like to go out for a drink?

Al’s in Locke. If you know, you know.

If you were stuck on a desert island, what would you want to be drinking (besides fresh water)?

Chablis.

Copain Wines, 7800 Eastside Rd., Healdsburg, 707.836.8822. copainwines.com.

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