Some restaurants get comfortable after a few years. Playa? Not a chance—or at least not now.
Mill Valley’s go-to for contemporary Mexican cuisine recently pulled a culinary plot twist with its bold new menu. And if the 2024 Michelin Bib Gourmand nod is any indication, chef Michael Siegel isn’t just refreshing dishes; he’s redefining the local dining scene.
Siegel, whose kitchen chops include stints at Betelnut and Bix, has a knack for reinvention. At the helm of both Playa and Corner Bar, he’s injecting even more flavor and flair into his dishes, diving deeper into the diverse and lesser-known flavors of Latin America while keeping Playa’s vibrant essence intact.
Forget playing it safe—this new menu is all about surprise and delight. The classic guacamole and signature salsas (chile morita, habanero and verde cruda) aren’t going anywhere but now share the spotlight with unexpected stars. A favorite: the Chile Relleno, a vegetarian wonder stuffed with ancho chile, plantain and tofu “chorizo,” finished with a velvety cashew crema. From the Mariscos portion of the menu, one may consider the supple Ahi Tostadas, accented with cucumbers, radish, ponzu (a tangy, Japanese citrus sauce), avocado crema and salsa macha cilantro—a refreshing spin on a classic.
Likewise, seafood lovers can dive into fresh ceviche or jumbo shrimp drenched in jalapeño-lime butter.
Meanwhile, carnivores will find their match in the Molcajete, an eye-catching lava rock bowl piled high with skirt steak and festooned with prawns and house-made chorizo, all soaking up a rich tomato-chipotle salsa.
Then there’s the Suadero, a crispy jalapeño flour tortilla wrapped around brisket, chilaca pepper salsa and avocado—a flavor bomb waiting to happen.
Just as Playa’s menu got a glow-up, so did the cocktail program, thanks to general manager and beverage director Manfred Mendez.
The Santa Madre plays with the sweet-heat balance of mezcal, pineapple syrup and ancho verde, while the Smokin’ Mirror takes a classic Manhattan and gives it a sultry, south-of-the-border remix with tequila, mezcal and port. Pro Tip: $10 margaritas are served during Happy Hour (4 to 6pm, Tuesday through Thursday).
With Siegel driving the kitchen and Mendez curating the drinks, Playa’s latest reinvention is as much an adventure as it is a meal. Whether one is a longtime fan or just discovering this Mill Valley gem, one thing’s for sure—dining here is anything but predictable.
Playa is located at 41 Throckmorton Ave. in downtown Mill Valley. Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. For details, visit playamv.com or call 415.384.8871.
