At some point, the hamburger evolved from the urschleim of sandwichdom and became its own beast.
If we are to believe that John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, popularized the notion of eating meat between paired slices of bread in the mid-18th century, we may squint and also see the nascent beginnings of what would eventually become the burger.
But in the centuries that followed, the burger has so outpaced its ancestry that can we really call it a sandwich anymore? Clearly it’s speciated into a new creature entirely—it has vast restaurant chains devoted to it and dominates American culinary culture. Meanwhile, there’s a sandwich in a plastic triangle in an airport somewhere wondering what went wrong.
With Bay Area Burger Week running Oct. 7–18, it’s no longer time to consider whether the hamburger has achieved thingness—it certainly has, despite what New York’s Department of Taxation and Finance thinks. The venerable institution classifies hamburgers as sandwiches, but it also considers burritos, hot dogs and even buttered bagels the same. And they’re wrong.
I propose a separate classification: the genus Meatus betweenus buns. This is Latin-ish for precisely how it reads (if you say it out loud, it sounds like a Harry Potter spell). The distinguishing characteristic for this branch of the Tree of Lunch is the patty. A sliced steak in a roll is a steak sandwich. Grind it, shape it and grill it, and suddenly it’s a burger. Somewhere along the way, we decided that rearranging the cow changed everything. Culinary evolution works in mysterious ways.
What’s the difference between “hamburger” and “ground beef?” The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Food Safety and Inspection Service is glad we asked. Simply put, “Beef fat may be added to ‘hamburger,’ but not ‘ground beef.’” A maximum of 30% fat is allowed in either hamburger or ground beef, and both hamburger and ground beef can have seasonings, but no added water, phosphates, extenders or binders can be added. Duly noted.
But how did the name of a German city—Hamburg—get pinned to the burger? Some trace it back to a “hamburger steak” on American menus during the late 19th century’s wave of German immigration. Maybe. No one actually knows.
Likewise, no one knows who first put the patty in a bun. Several American towns and restaurateurs claim the invention. The Smithsonian’s exploration of burger history places most such claims between 1885 and 1904, as mechanical meat grinders became more widely available. Naturally, our national food comes with competing origin stories, but the common denominator is unmistakably American: immigrant roots meet entrepreneurial ambition.
What interests me is how much personality this basic arrangement permits. A diner cheeseburger and a brioche-bunned production with truffle aioli somehow occupy the same category, despite requiring different levels of sophistication regarding one’s palate and financing.
So consider Burger Week an opportunity for field research. Visit an old favorite. Investigate a new joint. No matter how one defines a burger, the only question that should be in one’s mind in its presence is, “You want fries with that?”
Bay Area Burger Week
Oct. 7–18. For specials and more information, visit bayareaburgerweek.com.
Marin County
Due West Tavern
10005 CA-1, Olema
415.663.1264
olemahouse.com/due-west-restaurant
Tavern Smashburger—$25
Smashburger topped with American cheese, sauteed onions, house dill pickles and aioli served on a brioche bun. Comes with a side of fries and any draft beer (including Pliny the Elder) or a drink of your choice.
Lagunitas General Store
7290 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Lagunitas
415.488.4844
LagunitasGeneralStore.com
This roadside stop keeps things satisfyingly straightforward: an Oklahoma-style smashburger with fries for $11.95. A classic comfort-food combo for fueling a West Marin excursion.
Pt. Reyes Mi Casita
10905 CA-1, Point Reyes Station
707.364.5584
instagram.com/pointreyesmicasita
Check website for Burger Week promotion details (not available at press time).
Super Duper Burgers
5839 Paradise Dr., Corte Madera
628.253.6247
Super Duper Burgers
430 Miller Ave., Mill Valley
415.380.8555
Super Duper Burgers
5800 Nave Dr., Novato
415.382.1980
SuperDuperBurgers.com
Bacon, egg and cheese get the Super Duper treatment. The B.E.C. Burger stacks a quarter-pound Brandt beef patty with bacon, an organic fried egg, cheddar, Super sauce, lettuce, tomato and onions. A double-patty option is available for those bringing a little extra ambition to lunch.
Tasty’s Joint
43 Caledonia St., Sausalito
415.515.0631
instagram.com/tastysjoint
If one is good for gouda, here’s the burger for you: smoked gouda, smashed prime beef, onion aioli, on a potato bun, for $17.95. There’s also a marinated portobello smash burger featuring burrata and marinated in balsamic and thyme, resulting in a delicious vegetarian option for $15.95.
