.Winemaking Minimalist: Anaba Wines’ Katy Wilson

Katy Wilson lives in Napa, but her work is deeply rooted in Sonoma County. She’s winemaker of Anaba Wines as well as her own low-intervention brand, LaRue.

After Cal Poly, she chased harvest seasons across hemispheres at wineries including Joseph Phelps, Testarossa, Torbreck in Australia’s Barossa Valley and Craggy Range in New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay.

Returning to California, she knew that pinot noir was part of her destiny, and she joined Flowers Winery on the Sonoma Coast as harvest enologist before advancing to assistant winemaker.

Wilson launched LaRue in 2009, producing at Kamen’s facility, where she worked under Mark Herold through 2014. Though their winemaking philosophies differed dramatically, that contrast proved transformative. By 2012, she had formed a consulting partnership with Ross Cobb (for Claypool Cellars and Banshee Wines) where they connected with Noah Dorrance, who launched Reeve Wines in 2015, inviting the two to be winemakers for the new label.

In 2014, she departed Kamen and began collaborating with Smith Story Wine Cellars. A friend then introduced her to John Sweazey at Anaba Wines—the fit was perfect.

They later constructed Anaba’s winery facility, which now houses several projects. Currently, she serves as winemaker at Anaba, consulting winemaker for Reeve and Smith Story, while continuing LaRue Wines.

Wilson is known for her minimalist winemaking style that highlights Sonoma County’s special vineyard sites. It is obvious, through her collaboration and work with top tier labels, that she is doing what she was meant to do.

Amber Turpin: How did you get into this work?

Katy Wilson: I grew up on a walnut orchard, and knew I wanted to be in agriculture. When I attended Cal Poly San Luis Obispo and discovered that wine could be part of a future career—combining creativity and chemistry—I immediately began a double major in wine & viticulture and agricultural business.

Did you ever have an ‘aha’ moment with a certain beverage? If so, tell us about it.

I don’t really have one big ‘aha’ moment, but I do remember while working for Eberle Winery while in college, the owner let us pick any bottle from his personal cellar during a company holiday party. I chose a 1983 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon. It was delicious.

What is your favorite thing to drink at home?

Champagne or a gin and tonic.

Where do you like to go out for a drink?

Zuzu in Napa has a fun gin and tonic bar.

If you were stuck on a desert island, what would you want to be drinking (besides fresh water)?

Pinot noir.

Anaba Wines, 62 Bonneau Rd., Sonoma, 707.996.4186. anabawines.com

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