.Food & Drink: Land of enchantment

Wu Wei Tea Temple full of charm

By Tanya Henry

Fairfax’s Wu Wei Tea Temple claims to be the only bone broth bar in Marin. And while that may be true, the art gallery-turned-storytelling venue, tea temple, art exhibit space and community gathering spot is so much more. On a sleepy stretch of Sir Francis Drake, this 7-month-old tea house exudes a communal vibe that centers around the owner’s love of all things herbal.

“This is my dream—my living room,” explains owner Tracy Brien, a self-described chameleon who moved to Larkspur after 20 years of living in San Francisco and working in advertising. “I wanted to come to Marin and play with herbs and find community,” she says with a wink. The petite and energetic Brien enthusiastically greets every person who walks in the door—usually by his or her first name. Once customers are comfortably seated at low-level tables, comfy floor pillows or a chunky wood bar with stools, she sits down with them and helps them order herbal infusions, Chinese teas and hot and cold elixirs—and oh yes, seven different bone broths that are produced in Sebastopol.

There is such a spirit of inclusiveness here that despite the almost overwhelming list of teas, eclectic ambience of vibrant purple and red walls, colorful rugs and mask art adorning the walls, there isn’t a whiff of pretense. Instead, the young and the old have embraced this charming tea house and made it their own.

Hot herbal infusions are created by Brien (also an herbalist) and co-worker Cassidy Russell, and cold elixirs—like a Chocolate Berry Fairy Kiss that includes cacao, maca, coconut milk, berry kombucha and cardamom, offer an array of flavors. Teas are presented in 8-ounce stone mugs or 16-ounce teapots, and a food menu includes Middle Eastern offerings. But Brien cautions, “We are not for everybody; not everyone is ready to be enchanted.”

During my 90-minute peek down this rabbit hole, I enjoyed a steaming concoction of Love Tea prepared with rose petals, orange peel, cacao nibs and vanilla bean, I was invited to partake in a Japanese tea ceremony by a fellow customer seated near me at the bar and I observed an excited young woman with her guitar preparing for an open mic. All this while I nibbled on an Afghani squash-filled flatbread—I was enchanted.

Wu Wei Tea Temple, 1820 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Fairfax; 415/516-2578; wuweiteatemple.com.

Pacific Sun
The Pacific Sun publishes every Wednesday, delivering 21,000 copies to 520 locations throughout Marin County.

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