Hero & Zero

Hero

Two Marin teenage filmmakers are remembering a neglected cemetery in Lucas Valley. Georgia Lee and Mitchell Tanaka learned about the county graveyard from a park ranger and became intrigued with its numbered graves and the long-forgotten stories of the dead laid to rest there. More than 280 indigent people were buried in the plots from 1880 through 1955, mostly residents of a nearby poor farm and patients that passed away in the county hospital.

The site currently contains no signage, and Lee and Tanaka want Marin to recognize and mark the area with an information placard. To promote their cause, they produced an award-winning documentary, A Silent Legacy, about the cemetery. Watch their fascinating film on YouTube by searching for “A Silent Legacy” and sign their petition at Change.org by searching for “Marin County poor farm.” Bravo, Georgia and Mitchell!

Zero

This week we bring you yet another chapter in the ongoing saga between bicyclists and hikers on Marin trails. The setting is Mount Burdell Open Space in Novato, and the players are a woman and her dog and a mean man on a bike. The action begins when the off-leash dog barks at the man and the man yells at the woman and the dog. The man then proceeds to get off his bicycle and kick the dog. The woman attempts to stop the violence by pushing the man away from her dog, and the man knocks her to the ground and chokes her. Scary stuff. Once the attack ceases, the man flees in a van, forgetting his bike and personal items. The Marin County Sheriff’s Department responds to the scene, deputies identify a suspect and they locate him the following day in Novato. Although he accuses the hiker of assaulting him, Jeffrey W. Skelton, 63, a Novato transient, is booked into the Marin County Jail on suspicion of assault likely to produce great bodily injury, cruelty to an animal and violation of probation. Fortunately, the woman and her dog are doing fine.

Paths of Glory

How well can cinema help us understand something as inconceivable as a war? That’s the problem with the remarkable They Shall Not Grow Old, which arrives a few months too late for the centennial of the Armistice. Peter Jackson, of The Lord of the Rings trilogy, weaves together documentary footage from the 1914–18 war and oral histories by 114 Western Front vets recorded a half-century ago.

In a prologue, the New Zealand director explains that he was given great latitude in working with a hundred hours of footage from the Imperial War Museums. It took him and his team four years to digitally cleanse, colorize and adjust the speeds of film from hand-cranked cameras. Footage, underexposed or overexposed to the point of uselessness, now reveals its details.

As a result, the front becomes visible onscreen as it never has before. The jerky black-and-white phantoms, marching in their puttees and tin helmets, now move like human beings and have faces that can be studied. Behind them the poppies are crimson—the flowers, which favor disturbed ground, become a symbol for the war.

This will surely irritate some historians, but Jackson created a composite experience of the front. There are no dates, no names of spring offensives or locations, just one long voyage. First the enlisting—the Army took people as young as 16—the training, and the boat to France. Then the marching to the zigzagged trenches, teetering on slippery duckboards over corpse-littered mud deep enough to swallow a man like quicksand. Behind the lines, there’s toil or mild recreation: thin beer, brothels and ball games.

Away from the front, the men pose with delight for the cinema camera, displaying captured German spiked helmets, and snuggling with the regimental goat. The old soldiers recall tricks: urine could be used for softening a stiff, ill-fitting army boot, just as soaking a handkerchief with piss could make a quick gas mask before a chlorine shell detonated.

Midway through, that new secret weapon arrives, the tank. The images here are clear enough that you can see the names painted on the sides of these oval-shaped steel monsters. At the blowing of a whistle, it’s over the top and into the face of the machine guns, through barbed wire snarled as thick as a blackberry patch.

Since film crews didn’t accompany the military charges, Jackson makes up collages from the illustrated newspapers of the time, as the vets tell of what they saw and what they did when they got to the German trenches. He also brings up evocative cartoons by Bruce Bairnsfather, the shell-shocked machine gunner turned humorist, who was important to the British WWI troops as Bill Mauldin’s cartoons were to the American soldiers of WWII.

This film is an achievement, but one feels that something is lost in translation, and it’s because of the narration. These old men are great subscribers to British understatement, and are observers of the law that one mustn’t grumble. Naturally, they have pride in enduring, and they have no lingering resentment toward the brave Germans who were just doing their duty.

The images are one thing, but the narration lacks the keenness of young contemporary observers such as Robert Graves, Wilfred Owens and Siegfried Sassoon, who wrote of the pointlessness of a war that killed “half the seed of Europe, one by one,” in Owens’ phrase.

Any English person will recognize the title from Remembrance Day ceremonies—it’s from Laurence Binyon’s poem “For the Fallen,” asserting that those who die young in battle keep their youth forever. They Shall Not Grow Old helps us understand WWI, the scar between the old world of kings and horses, and our own world of total war and regimentation. It’s invaluable but has little immediacy—a strangely placid look at something that happened so long ago.

‘They Shall Not Grow Old’ is playing at select theaters.

Tables for Two

Yes, dear. It’s that time of year again, when the calendar declares St. Valentine’s Day as the one day the entire population is expected to set the stage for romance. Although the legend of St. Valentine is murky, this sympathetic hero of the Middle Ages was alleged to be the first person to sign off a notecard with “From Your Valentine.”

Beyond the notecards, the dozen red roses and the heart-shaped boxes of candies, there are lots of opportunities to shower affection on your sweetheart. Expressions of appreciation are abuzz with restaurant specials and sweet activities sure to land you a bullseye from Cupid’s arrow. “If you have something sweet to tell her, say it with music, beautiful music,” sang Irving Berlin in his immortal love song. And if you can’t sing—say it with food.

Marin County

As a precursor to dinner in Marin County, opt to set sail on the San Francisco Bay with that someone special for Valentine’s Day in Sausalito. Take a beautiful evening sail on the Schooner Freda B on Feb. 14, 4:30–6:45pm ($69 per person), and cozy up under a blanket as you take in the bay’s most iconic sights—the Golden Gate Bridge, Angel Island, Alcatraz and the sparkling San Francisco skyline.

Now that you’ve set the stage for romance, dinner at the Michelin-starred Madcap Marin restaurant in San Anselmo is set to serve up a sweet menu on Valentine’s Day ($135 per person). Take a seat for dinner that begins with a lobster miso shot and evolves to the taste of a Shinjuku oyster with elderflower mignonette, shima aji with blood orange and young ginger, Stonington sea scallops with Ossetra caviar and salsify, Onsen tamago with black truffles and lemongrass, roasted Nantes carrots with pistachios, Flannery filet mignon, and a dessert course that features mignardises (sweet pastries).

Also in San Anselmo, L’Appart Resto is ready for the lover’s holiday with a prix fixe menu ($80 per person). Along with the regular menu, chef Alex has created a menu that lists lobster gratin with morels and spinach, paired with Laurent-Perrier’s Brut La Cuvée Champagne. Choices continue with herb-crusted roasted rack of lamb served with a butternut squash purée, crosnes (Chinese artichokes) and a black truffle sauce, paired with a 2015 Les Hauts de Lynch-Moussas, Haut Médoc.

For those sans sweetheart, there are more options to celebrate love. The EV Lounge in San Anselmo has you covered with a Valentine’s Day Celebration for Singles ($5 per person). The Society for Single Professionals invites you to dress to impress, with unattached adults of all ages looking to connect in the name of romance.

In San Rafael, Wine & Design ($90 per couple) offers a signature Valentine’s Day Picasso portrait if you prefer to opt for a fun and hilarious celebration while seated across from your loved one, friend or family member (so that you cannot see each other’s canvases). Artists on-site will guide you with shapes and colors to create portraits of each other Picasso-style. You’re not allowed to peek at each other’s pictures until the Big Reveal at the end!

Sonoma County

If you’re set to impress your favorite foodie, you’ll want to reserve one of the last spots available for the Valentine’s Day dinner at SingleThread Farm, Restaurant & Inn in Healdsburg ($325 per person). The 11-course dinner at this Michelin three-star restaurant is menu-driven by ingredients secured from the property’s Alexander Valley farm, local Sonoma ranches, and coastal waters of northern California.

In the heart of downtown Healdsburg, Spoonbar—h2hotel’s signature restaurant—offers a sweet and savory four-course Valentine’s Day menu prepared by recently appointed chef Matthew D’Ambrosi ($65 per person). The menu begins with a petite shellfish platter, followed by a butter lettuce endive salad and main choices of Mediterranean branzino with roasted lemon potatoes, garlic beet greens and shaved beets—or Tuscan-style prime ribeye steak. The meal concludes with a warm, flourless chocolate cake paired with chocolate ice cream, wild berries, candied pecans and gold flakes.

For those who want to send a truly over-the-top message of love, head to the Rooftop at Harmon Guest House in Healdsburg, the only publicly accessible rooftop bar with a fire pit and views of Fitch Mountain, the Sonoma Hills and downtown Healdsburg. On Feb. 14, an elegant three-course Valentine’s Day menu ($59 per person) begins with several canapés such as warm Dungeness crab cake, chilled prawn cocktail, beau soleil oyster, mignonette and warmed blinis topped with caviar. Lobster risotto is planned as the first course, followed by choices of red-wine-braised prime beef short ribs and mahi-mahi with crispy shiitake mushrooms and scallion salad. Dessert will not disappoint—a warmed Valrhona chocolate “ganache” fondue.

If your goal is to take romance up a notch, the best gifts are those that are handmade. Even better, why not forego the cost of a dozen red roses and make your own floral arrangement for your sweetheart? On Tuesday, Feb. 12, from 6:30pm to 7:30pm in Petaluma, Angela Faustino of Faustino’s Valentine’s Succulent & Roses Arrangement Class will be at 101 North Brewery to offer a special class all about building a succulent arrangement with roses. The $35 class price includes the glass container along with everything you need to make what will be your favorite valentine decoration for you or your sweetheart.

Napa County

One of the most romantic ways to swoon your special someone is to ride the rail on the Napa Valley Wine Train ($165 and above per person). During a three-hour evening rail tour of vintage Napa Valley, you’ll pass spectacular landscapes on a ride that reflects old-world charm through one of the most romantic places in the world. The tour begins with a glass of sparkling wine, and a multiple-course dinner is enhanced with a serenade by a strolling violinist.

At TORC, a high-energy restaurant in Napa, a four-course Valentine’s Day prix-fixe menu ($115 per person) begins with choices of boar terrine or Ossetra caviar ($250 supplement). Move on with more choices of duck, tagliatelle with truffles, short rib or 28-day dry-aged N.Y. strip steak, and finish with a choice of desserts that include rouzaire affineur with quince jam and pistachio.

In downtown Napa, the CIA at Copia is cooking up some fun with the Chef’s Table Special Edition: Valentine’s Day ($150 per person). In this interactive dinner event, guests will gather around the table in the Napa Valley Vintners Theater demonstration kitchen and watch Culinary Institute of America chefs work their magic as they teach tips and techniques. Guests will enjoy food and beverage pairings, and chocolate truffles, departing with recipes to prepare shareable dishes for two.

Farther north in the Napa Valley, tickets are still available for a three-course Sweetheart Dinner at the CIA at Greystone in Saint Helena ($125 per person). This event will take place in the historic barrel room and will showcase the talents of CIA chefs along with live entertainment of Marc Teicholz.

Horoscope

ARIES (March 21-April 19) Climbing mountains has been a popular adventure since the 19th century, but there are still many peaks around the world that no one has ever ascended. They include the 24,591-foot-high Muchu Chhish in Pakistan, 23,691-foot Karjiang South in Tibet and 12,600-foot Sauyr Zhotasy on the border of China and Kazakhstan. If there are any Aries mountaineers reading this horoscope who have been dreaming about conquering an unclimbed peak, 2019 will be a great time to do it, and now would be a perfect moment to plan or launch your quest. As for the rest of you Aries, what’s your personal equivalent of reaching the top of an unclimbed peak?

TAURUS (April 20–May 20) Eminem’s song “Lose Yourself” was a featured track in the movie 8 Mile, and it won an Academy Award for Best Original Song in 2003. The creator himself was not present at the Oscar ceremony to accept his award, however. He was so convinced his song would lose that he stayed home. At the moment that presenter Barbra Streisand announced Eminem’s triumph, he was asleep in front of the TV with his daughter, who was watching cartoons. In contrast to him, I hope you will be fully available and on the scene for the recognition or acknowledgment that should be coming your way sometime soon.

GEMINI (May 21–June 20) While enjoying its leisure time, the peregrine falcon glides around at 50 miles per hour. But when it’s motivated by the desire to eat, it may swoop and dart at a velocity of 220 miles per hour. Amazing! In accordance with your astrological omens, Gemini, I propose that we make the peregrine falcon your spirit creature for the next three weeks. I suspect you will have extraordinary speed and agility and focus whenever you’re hunting for exactly what you want. So here’s a crucial question: what exactly do you want?

CANCER (June 21–July 22) Now and then the sun shines and rain falls at the same time. The meteorological name for the phenomenon is “sunshower,” but folklore provides other terms. Hawaiians may call it “liquid sunshine” or “ghost rain.” Speakers of the Tangkhul language in India imagine it as “the wedding of a human and spirit.” Whatever you might prefer to call it, Cancerian, I suspect that the foreseeable future will bring you delightful paradoxes in a similar vein. And in my opinion, that will be very lucky for you, since you’ll be in the right frame of mind and spirit to thrive amidst just such situations.

LEO (July 23–August 22) A study by the Fidelity financial services company revealed that in 43 percent of all couples, neither partner has an accurate knowledge of how much money the other partner earns. Meanwhile, research by the National Institute of Health concludes that among heterosexual couples, 36 percent of husbands misperceive how frequently their wives have orgasms. I bring this to your attention in order to sharpen your focus on how crucial it is to communicate clearly with your closest allies. I mean, it’s rarely a good idea to be ignorant about what’s going on with those close to you, but it’ll be an especially bad idea during the next six weeks.

VIRGO (August 23–September 22) Torre Mayor is one of the tallest skyscrapers in Mexico City. When workers finished its construction in 2003, it was one of the world’s most earthquake-proof buildings, designed to hold steady during an 8.5-level temblor. Over the course of 2019, Virgo, I’d love to see you erect the metaphorical equivalent of that unshakable structure in your own life. The astrological omens suggest that doing so is quite possible. And the coming weeks will be an excellent time to launch that project or intensify your efforts to manifest it.

LIBRA (September 23–October 22) Multitalented Libran singer and actor Donald Glover uses the name of Childish Gambino when he performs his music. How did he select that alias? He used an online random name generator created by the rap group Wu-Tang Clan. I tried the same generator and got “Fearless Warlock” as my new moniker. You might want to try it yourself, Libra. The coming weeks will be an excellent time to add layers to your identity and expand your persona and mutate your self-image. The generator is here: tinyurl.com/yournewname. (P.S.: If you don’t like the first one you’re offered, keep trying until you get one you like.)

SCORPIO (October 23–November 21) Leonardo da Vinci’s painting Salvator Mundi sold for $450 million in 2017. Just 12 years earlier, an art collector had bought it for $10,000. Why did its value increase so extravagantly? Because in 2005, no one was sure it was an authentic da Vinci painting. It was damaged and had been covered with other layers of paint that hid the original image. After extensive efforts at restoration, the truth about it emerged. I foresee the possibility of a comparable, if less dramatic, development in your life during the next ten months, Scorpio. Your work to rehabilitate or renovate an underestimated resource could bring big dividends.

SAGITTARIUS (November 22–December 21) We can behold colors because of specialized cells in our eyes called cones. Most of us have three types of cones, but a few rare people have four. This enables them to see far more hues than the rest of us. Are you a tetrachromat, a person with super-vision? Whether you are or not, I suspect you will have extra powerful perceptual capacities in the coming weeks. According to my analysis of the astrological omens, you will be able to see more than you usually do. The world will seem brighter and deeper and more vivid. I urge you to deploy your temporary superpower to maximum advantage.

CAPRICORN (December 22–January 19) There are two kinds of minor, boring tasks. One is when you’re attending to a detail that’s not in service to a higher purpose, like scouring a permanent stain on a part of the kitchen counter that no one ever sees; the other is when you’re attending to a detail that is a crucial step in the process of fulfilling an important goal, like downloading a software update so your computer works better and you can raise your efficiency levels as you pursue a pet project. The coming weeks will be an excellent time to keep this distinction in mind as you focus on the minor, boring little tasks that are crucial steps in the process of eventually fulfilling an important goal.

AQUARIUS (January 20–February 18) Before comedian Robin Williams was famous, he spontaneously sat on his own head when he auditioned for the role of the extraterrestrial immigrant Mork, the hero of the TV sitcom Mork and Mindy. The casting director was impressed with Williams’ odd but amusing gesture, and hired him immediately. If you’re presented with an opportunity sometime soon, I encourage you to be inspired by the comedian’s ingenuity. What might you do to cinch your audition, to make a splashy first impression, to convince interested parties that you’re the right person?

PISCES (February 19–March 20) Twitter wit Notorious Debi Hope advises us, “Before you diagnose yourself with depression or low self-esteem, first make sure that you are not, in fact, just surrounded by assho––s.” That’s wise counsel for you to keep in mind during the next three weeks. Let me add a few corollaries. First, stave off any temptation you might have to believe that others know what’s good for you better than you do. Second, figure out what everyone thinks of you and aggressively liberate yourself from their opinions. Third, if anyone even hints at not giving you the respect you deserve, banish them for at least three weeks.

Open Heart

For much of her career, Diane Epstein was a creativity coach and therapist dealing with matters of the heart and mind. Soon after she moved from San Francisco to Italy in 1995, she added a new passion in fine art photography and created a technique she calls “fresco photography,” layering superimposed photographs on top of each other, like layers of paint, to create images that resembled the aging Italian paintings she saw.

“I call it layered love notes,” says Epstein. “The images evoke a sense of a love of life and all living things.”

When her former husband died, Epstein returned to California in 2015. “I came back to the Bay Area to start afresh, a new chapter in my life,” says Epstein, who now lives in the East Bay. “Actually, it’s been amazing coming back. I didn’t expect that, [making] a whole new life for myself.”

In Italy, Epstein’s artistic focus was on architectural detail in landscapes and cityscapes as well as what she calls the patina of time, the imperfections that come with passing centuries.

Since she’s been back in the Bay Area, she has trained her camera on the region’s natural beauty and become involved in biophilic design, the art of incorporating natural features into interior spaces to encourage serenity, focus and wellbeing.

“I’m interested in implementing my works to help transform spaces and create some wellness elements,” says Epstein. “Most people spend 90 percent of their time indoors, and they’re losing the beauty and the healing elements of California if they’re indoors all the time. One of my missions is to bring love into the world, but also to bring in the love of nature.”

She shares that love of nature with her new husband, an evolutionary biologist, and the two recently married explorers can often be found at sites like the Point Reyes seashore.

This month, Epstein’s work can also be found in Marin at her new exhibit, “An Open Book: Fresco Photography,” showing now at Room Art Gallery in Mill Valley.

Epstein’s focus for this show is on three images of books done in her signature style. Two of the images depict ancient books from the Biblioteca Angelica (the Library of Angels), in Rome, with the layered images celebrating the aging textural remnants of ancient storytelling. The third image, “An Open Book” (pictured), shows a book whose blank pages flutter, suggesting a new story yet to be written.

On Feb. 16, Epstein will be on hand for the show’s Valentine’s-appropriate “Art Lovers’ Opening” reception, in which she will lead a workshop titled “An Untold Love Story,” where participants can bring their own blank books, and find inspiration to write their own stories.

“Love is such an important part of my life,” says Epstein. “And my purpose in life is to bring more love into people’s lives.

“I see love as a part of everyone’s story.”

Meet Diane Epstein at the ‘Art Lovers’ Opening’ on Saturday, Feb. 16, at Room Art Gallery, 86 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. Noon to 3pm. ‘An Untold Love Story’ workshop begins at 1pm. Free. epsteinphotography.com.

Advice Goddess

Q: I’m seeing so many women on Instagram who’ve had themselves made over to be super-hot through cosmetic surgery and injectable fillers. They all have the same face—with big, luscious lips and huge doll-like eyes. In every shot, they’re in full makeup—crazy eyeliner, tons of contouring. Do guys actually like this plastic Barbie look? Are guys cool with cosmetic surgery in general?—Curious

A: If only these women of Instagram were honest in their photo credits: “Hair by Luigi. Makeup by Annabelle. Face by Dow Corning.”

Countless men insist that they prefer “the natural look,” yet they never go “Wow . . . gorgeous!” when you sashay toward them with a face full of unconcealed pimples. Helpfully, zoologist John R. Krebs and evolutionary biologist Richard Dawkins explain that “living organisms” can easily be tricked by crude fakes—fakes that bear only the itsy-bitsiest resemblance to the organisms’ real life stimuli. They give the example of what I call “Popsicle birdie”—how “a black-headed gull will show its normal aggressive response to a stuffed gull’s head mounted on a stick, with no body.”

Guess what, fellow humans: We shouldn’t be too quick to feel superior to our friends with beaks, gills and tails. Krebs and Dawkins note that a man can get “sexually aroused” by a mere photo of a naked woman. Of course, he knows it isn’t an actual woman, but the photo “has enough visual stimuli in common with the real thing to have a similar effect on his physiology.”

Though it’s unlikely that women getting their faces remade in Klonedashian-esque ways are versed in anthropology, the enhancements they’re having done align with the female facial features that anthropologists like Douglas Jones have found are attractive to men across cultures. These are “neotenous” features—meaning somewhat baby-like ones—like big eyes, full lips, a small jaw and chin, and clear skin. These features are basically evolution’s billboard, advertising a highly desirable interior—meaning that they are cues to health and fertility.

However, though men evolved to prioritize looks in a woman, it’s obviously not all they value, especially when they’re hoping to get into a relationship. So these cosmetically and surgically redeveloped features may catch a man’s eye, but then, mentally, he may take a step back: “Oh, wait—she’s gotten all this work done.” And beyond how we all tend to feel threatened and even angered by fakery, many men see a woman’s extensive re-mod as a red flag, reflecting less-than-healthy psychology—an empty interior hidden behind a fancy paint job and a new, um, deck.

Research by Cari Goetz that I cited in a recent column finds that women with an overtly sexual look are generally not seen as long-term mating material by men. Though that research explored what women wore—scanty attire—it’s possible that women who wear a pile of makeup, with an overtly sexual look, would trigger the same reaction in men: basically, thumbs-up for a hookup or regular sex sessions, but not so much on introducing Mom to a woman who looks as if her work uniform is sequin nipple tassels.

However, there’s a counterpoint to all of this. Consider that it’s now possible, through medical innovation, to survive many diseases and conditions that were usually fatal. We don’t expect people with diseases to do what’s “natural”—suffer terribly and die. Maybe we’re a little too harsh on women who jump ahead in the beauty hierarchy through cosmetic procedures. (After all, we don’t knock men for using Rogaine, those little blue pills or deodorant.)

Additionally, maybe stigmatizing any sort of line-jumping stops discussion of the need for restraint in beauty upgrading. As I see it, the most successful “work” is the sort we don’t notice—women who look like themselves, only, uh, “better rested” or something. Ultimately, if a woman invites a man to meet her closest relatives, he isn’t at a loss for whether she’s asking him to a family reunion or to hit the aisle in Home Depot where they sell that expandable foam insulation stuff that people spray into their walls.

Just the Fairfax, Ma’am

Walking through Downtown Fairfax can feel like stepping back in time. The hospitable small town nestled in the wooded hills surrounding Marin County’s Mount Tamalpais emits a Hallmark-movie vibe—but only if the movie featured eco-loving locals who hang out at the clothing-optional Frogs Hots Tub sauna downtown.

Stunningly colorful murals and vibrant eclectic artwork capture the town’s creative spirit—and illustrate Fairfax’s claim to fame. It’s no big secret in these parts that mountain biking originated in Fairfax, and cycling is still a favored means of transportation for many environmentally conscious Marinites, including the late Robin Williams, who was often spotted on his bike in the county and was a regular visitor to Fairfax’s bike-oriented cultural outposts.

Spend a day wandering or wheeling around town, and lots of friendly faces are apt to greet you at each establishment, nearly all of which are shops of the mom-and-pop variety, offering an array of goods up and down the old-school chart. Fairfax may be small, but you’ll come to find very quickly that there are many hidden gems to explore.

The change of pace is immediately felt after turning off of Sir Francis Drake Boulevard and casually cruising onto Broadway and Bolinas Road. These intersecting streets serve as the center of downtown Fairfax. Downtown’s mixed architecture and appealing aesthetic reflects the town’s diversity, simplicity, sustainability and openness.

Mesmerizing murals and mosaics are scattered throughout Fairfax. Like an urban archeologist, I spent some time studying these detailed works of art celebrating Fairfax’s culture, history and establishments. One very colorful bench honors cycling with a bold label: “REPACK.” A small caption explains, “The name ‘Repack’ stems from the coaster-brake era, after a trip down the hill all the grease in a coaster brake turns to smoke and it’s time to repack the hub.”

The Marin Museum of Bicycling and Mountain Bike Hall of Fame is a well-known destination in town and just reopened after its annual two-week winter shutdown in early January.

The giant mountain bike displayed in front of the building signals a destination that’s unmissable while driving down Sir Francis Drake. There is also a small monumental brick wall out front full of tributes to companies, people and places associated with Marin County’s legendary bike culture.

Now for a little bit of shopping.

Fairfax Variety (located under a dental office on Broadway) has a little bit of everything, and then some. It’s your quirky one-stop shop for kitchen accessories, art supplies, party decorations, greeting cards, toys, candies, figurines, clothing accessories and more. I even saw miniature glossy figurines of animals and mythical creatures that I used to collect as a child. I stopped in front of the display case and was taken back by all the happy memories triggered by the trinkets. Metro-chic Revolution 9 provides playful collections of cute knick-knacks from the past, vintage posters, graphic tees, Funko Pops, stuffed animals and more imaginative goodies.

A bright, eye-catching, sky-blue-painted building immediately lured me into a tranquil gift shop appropriately called Bliss Fairfax. A pristine, pearly interior invites shoppers into a serene and heavenly whimsical atmosphere. Artwork featuring unicorns, adorable treasures for little girls, and displays of sparkly jewelry is all a sweet feast for the eyes.

Other gift shops and boutiques have a more bohemian and earthy ambiance. Mystic Rose is a fun vintage store that conjures more nostalgia as you browse through couture clothing and hard-to-find classic pieces from the ’90s and beyond. I saw a gold 49ers bomber jacket that my mom had bought for the men in our family when I was little. Apparently, nowadays that jacket is hard to find. Who knew? Also, when did the ’90s become vintage?

Marin County is known for going green. The Herban Garden is a perfect example of new eco-friendly boutiques that sell merchandise with a conscience. Candles, clothes, beauty, jewelry, home décor and kitchen-wares are organic, fair trade, hand-crafted and made from recycled materials in the U.S.A.

Keep your eyes peeled while meandering down the street. Some tucked-away places are easy to miss because, so be sure to pay attention to signs guiding you toward elusive establishments located in alleys or upper levels. You never know what kind of gifts you can find.

[drop cap]

After popping in and out of quaint shops all along Bolinas Road, I reached a little lush park across from the town hall and police station. It’s the perfect space to walk your dog and/or rest on a wooden bench located in an embrace of towering redwood trees. A stone structure sits in tribute to the armed services and dedicated to all who helped in their efforts.

Goosebumps rushed over me as I read the bronze plaque explaining all of the thoughtful symbolism:

The live redwood represents the different branches of the Armed Forces.

The cut stump, for those cut down in the Supreme Sacrifice.

The decayed stump, that beauty, and good can come from Sacrifice.

The drinking fountain, as our Life’s Blood.

The hedge trees, are our people standing behind the Armed Forces.

The small boxwoods, are our children looking towards them.

It is a moving sight, which can be easily missed if you don’t take the time to stroll around—another token of the old-fashioned sentiments found in this welcoming town with a wanderlust spirit.

Around the corner, you’ll find a more playful space. The community center hosts classes and events. The adjacent Peri Park has picnic tables, jungle gyms, swing sets, and other wonders to entertain your wild child’s whims. The kids will even get a kick out of the Ross Valley fire station located beside the park. Glass garage doors showcase classic and modern fire engines kept in polished crimson condition.

You’ll definitely work up an appetite exploring all day. I started the day off with breakfast at the Hummingbird. Their sourdough french toast is delicious—light, fluffy and savory. The syrup is sweet but not overpowering or cloying. It is a small, homey and friendly hotspot with a very casual atmosphere. They are also known for their beignets and other New Orleans treats—just know that’s it’s a cash-only place, no credit cards accepted.

Downtown hosts international flavors that will suit your multiple cravings. Mexican, Japanese, Indian, Thai, Italian and American cuisine—a little bit of everything for everyone. Grab a beer and brat at Gestalt Haus, where they have plenty of parking for your bike. There are actually a few biker-friendly eateries in town, some of which have been featured on Pacific Sun before. The Gestalt graces our cover this week.

In addition to cycling, Fairfax is known for its nightlife—there are lots of popular local musicians and open mics. Peri’s Silver Dollar Bar’s groovy ambiance has been keeping patrons entertained for 80 years. Live music, bar games and a disco ball illuminating the outdoor patio are all alluring aspects of this iconic joint. You have to love a place that decorates the ladies’ room with Elvis Presley memorabilia. Plus, the neon martini logo made me thirsty for a drink, or two, when I saw it.

More adventures await if you journey outside of downtown. Mt. Tam Watershed and its surroundings have trails for driving, walking (with dogs), biking and horse riding. It’s a slow and long drive up a winding road to the lake and alpine reservoir along Fairfax-Bolinas Road (the road is closed during wicked weather season, so consider yourself warned). I really wanted to see waterfalls, but the muddy hillsides were a little nerve-wracking. Instead of venturing miles ahead, I pulled aside at an early vista spot and got out of the car. The views are breathtaking. Vast and plush forests adorn the mountainscape and in the distance, the paved curving road cuts through evergreen trees leading to the glistening Alpine Lake, which adds the illustrious sparkle as light from the misty sky reflects off of the water.

Now head back to town for a proper shop at the large and legendary Good Earth Natural Foods. Stick around awhile—check out a show at 19 Broadway, where highlights include a first-Friday monthly dancehall Reggae show; or check out a movie at the Fairfax Theater. And here I thought quaint, nostalgic, eco-friendly towns with welcoming folks and tons of fun stuff to do only existed in the movies. Not so!

Tiffany Tchobanian is a freelance writer in Novato, which is also kind of a fun town.

 

Frogs Hot Tubs

10 School St # B., 415.453.7647.

Marin Museum of Bicycling and Mountain Bike Hall of Fame

1966 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., 415.450.8000.

Fairfax Variety

61 Broadway, 415.457.2580.

Revolution 9

14 Bolinas Road, 415.459.7999.

Bliss Fairfax

61 Bolinas Road, 415.295.7729.

Mystic Rose

9 Bolinas Road; phone number is mystically unavailable

Herban Garden

15 Bolinas Road, 415.453.1709.

Peri Park

16 Park Road

Hummingbird Café

57 Broadway, 415.457.9866.

Gestalt Haus

28 Bolinas Road, 415.721.7895.

Peri’s Silver Dollar Bar

29 Broadway, 415.459.9910.

Good Earth Natural Foods

720 Center Blvd., 415.454.0123.

19 Broadway Nightclub

19 Broadway, 415.459.0293.

Fairfax Theater

9 Broadway, 415.453.5444.

Alpine Lake

If it’s open, head up the winding Fairfax-Bolinas Road until you see water.

 

State of Democracy

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Really, if you do a little translation of cultural reference points, it’s not that big of a gap from first-term Congresswoman Rashia Tlaib’s much-clucked-about “Impeach the motherfucker” remark earlier this month to the line that former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright dropped on a Washington banquet crowd in December, eyebrow raised for emphasis.

“Leaders such as Viktor Orbán and Rodrigo Duterte have said that these times demand a governing model that is more autocratic than democratic,” Albright intoned with slow, steely deliberation, referring to the neo-fascist thugs who have taken power in Hungary and the Philippines. “There is a diplomatic term of art for such thinking, and it starts with a ‘b.’”

I happened to be in the crowd for the National Democratic Institute event, next to where Albright was sitting before taking the podium, and considered yelling out: “’Bullshit!’” to complete her thought. It was the kind of fancy-fancy Washington function where I’d have probably been dragged out of the place for such an outburst, but I’d have done my part for the public discourse.

“Balderdash,” Albright quickly added, with perfect comic timing and a butter-wouldn’t-melt-in-her-mouth look.

Indeed, it’s time to call balderdash, loudly and repeatedly, to the notion that there’s anything at all justifiable about dallying with fascism, as our dim-witted monster of a president so loves to do. Fascism is a power grab. Fascism is crude self-love writ large. Fascism is the enemy and the opposite of democracy, real democracy, as Madeleine Albright has articulated better than anyone—in that speech in Washington, to a degree, but especially in her New York Times No. 1 bestseller Fascism: A Warning, due out this week in paperback. And, I expect, at her upcoming appearance at the Kaiser Permanente Arena in Santa Cruz on Feb. 5 (the $23 admission also includes a paperback copy of the book).

Speaking with the Secretary

I spoke to Secretary Albright on Martin Luther King Jr. Day, just after I sat through the numbingly cynical sight of President Trump and Vice President Mike Pence toddling along in winter coats after laying a wreath at the King memorial in Washington. Yes, the likes of Trump and Pence shall reap just what they sow, and the same is true for all of us. Democracy is not just what you take out, it’s also what you give back.

“Citizens must consider voting and participation not just a right, but a responsibility,” Albright told me. “Some people think my book is alarming. It is supposed to be alarming. . . . I do think that it’s tragic what is going on. Clearly there are issues in all our societies in terms of divisions, and whether the social contract is broken, and what technology is doing to our societies.”

History, which Albright has lived to a remarkable degree, can indeed be a good teacher.

“I don’t think most people focus on the fact that Mussolini and Hitler and Franco in Spain all came to power constitutionally,” she told me. “There are those who are copying things that Mussolini said initially, which was that there are simple answers to problems. The problems are complicated. People don’t want to hear that.”

No, they don’t, especially in an era when most of our dialogue comes in short bursts via social media.

“If all of a sudden there is a leader who says, ‘I have the answers, just follow me,’ and the extrapolation of that is that there are scapegoats, which are the reasons that this happened, and the identification with one group that feels that they have been robbed or neglected, then divisions are exacerbated. So what we need is leaders who can find common ground.”

So what of Trump, then? Albright paused before answering.

“I don’t call him a fascist,” she said evenly. “I do think he’s the least democratic president in modern American history. I draw an allusion in the book, first made by Mussolini, which is that you can pluck a chicken one feather at a time and nobody notices. What I think is happening is Trump is plucking feathers. Thinking he’s above the law or having no respect for the judiciary and generally putting down institutions—those are pretty significant feathers. He is taking steps that are undermining how government is supposed to operate.”

The Impeachment Question

I didn’t think it likely that the former Secretary of State was going to stand with Tom Steyer, our California firebrand, and others loudly calling for the impeachment of Trump, and I was right. That’s not her position, but it was still fun to listen to her say a lot between the lines when I asked if she supported an immediate push toward pursuing the impeachment of Trump.

“I don’t,” she said, and paused to choose her words carefully before expanding on the thought. “I do think laws have to be followed. I have witnessed two impeachments, and they suck the air out of everything going on, but I think if a president is breaking the law, there are processes here, and I do believe in the constitution, or maybe even the 25th amendment.”

The 25th amendment calls for the vice president to replace the president “in the event of death, removal, resignation, or incapacitation.”

Staring fascism straight in the face is a great way to get us thinking in a fresh way about democracy and what it really means, just as staring death in the face—when cancer claims a relative, for example—has a knack for reminding us that we’d better get out there and live our lives like we mean it. Make no mistake, the American experiment in democracy has been on life support these last two years, dangerously close to slipping away in the night, and we’re not through the woods yet.

This is a good time to ask yourself, really ask yourself: Do I care about democracy? What am I willing to do for it? And do we Americans ask ourselves often enough what democracy requires of us?

“I think they don’t,” Albright told me. “I wasn’t born in the United States. When we came to this country, my father used to say that he worried that Americans take democracy for granted. You have to work for democracy. It is both resilient and fragile—both are true.”

I’ve written on foreign policy for publications from The New York Times to Salon to Foreign Policy, and I had some reservations about some of Albright’s positions when she first took over from Warren Christopher and served as Bill Clinton’s Secretary of State. But she soon won me over, and in the years since, I’ve crossed paths with her repeatedly and have always been amazed by her combination of knowledge, considered opinion, feel for people and self-aware sense of humor.

Ask her about her pins and she can talk to you for an hour—and you’ll love every minute of it. She has what can only be called old-world charm and manners, but at the same time, a uniquely American love of ideas and engagement. She’s always excited about what’s coming next, especially some time in California.

“I love coming to California,” she told me. “It’s beautiful and the people are very politically engaged. I think it’s a fascinating state. Some people think it’s very different than the rest of the United States in its dedication to diversity. That to me is its great strength.”

I asked Albright if she worries, watching the way Trump eggs on his hardcore followers. To me, he does not look so much like someone trying to put together a winning coalition in 2020. He looks like someone wanting a bigger mob when things get ugly.

“It seems at times as if Trump’s primary goal is having an energized group of supporters who tune out facts or reality and blindly support the leader, and would be willing to create chaos in the streets if called on to do so,” I said to Albright. “Is that your concern as well?”

“It is worrisome,” she said, and again talked about history and its lessons and what it tells us about the anti-democratic figures coming to power all around the world, most recently in Brazil. “We have to be very careful how they come to power and use rallies and threats and promises to get into office, and then there is the danger of violence. That’s certainly what happened in Charlottesville.”

Lifesaver

When Bob Dylan won the Nobel Prize for literature in 2016, the news was greeted by some with the retort that, if the Swedes were going to go in that direction, they should have given the prize to Joni Mitchell. It would have been both a smart choice and a sentimental one, given the premature report of Joni’s death to a brain aneurysm in 2015. In recent years, she’s suffered other maladies. The cigs caught up with that crystalline voice, and a mysterious skin condition made her shun daylight.

Yet the party for her in Joni 75: A Birthday Celebration shows both the range of her music and the affection that the world of music has for her.

The concert film compiles a two-night-long show last November at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion in Los Angeles, the city she analyzed in verse for years.

Not everyone gets Joni Mitchell: the strange guitar tunings, the high blue yodel or the throaty intimacy of her confessional mode. Writing about Mitchell, who was one of only two female performers in 1978’s Last Waltz, Roger Ebert said that he didn’t know what her song “Coyote” was supposed to be about. (It’s easy: it’s about Sam Shepard, or somebody like him.)

While Mitchell’s modes changed, from lissome folkie to thick-skinned blueswoman to jazz artist, one point stayed as constant as a northern star: both in age and in youth, Mitchell insisted on a woman’s privilege of traveling alone, sleeping with whom she pleased and holding firm to independence.

Lyrically, Mitchell’s viewpoint changed from hippie naiveté to embittered realist. If once she thought people were made of stardust, she came to fear they’re all just meat in a dog-eat-dog world, where “sex sells everything / and sex kills.” Always in her songs are diagrams of traps waiting for women. One side is the grim one-night-stand in “Down to You”; the other is a different kind of discontent in “Harry’s House/Centerpiece.” There, Mitchell imagines the Scarsdale angst that could have been hers, lolling around waiting for the husband to return from the indelible cityscape she painted (“A helicopter lands on the Pan Am roof / like a dragonfly on a tomb”).

The concert is something for any Mitchell fan, from tricky jazz to the kind of crowd-pleasing material that any semi-competent street busker can make sound good. Glen Hansard, whose busking style was visible in the movie Once, does “Coyote” here. (Maybe the sainted Ebert would have understood the lyrics if a man sang them?)

Graham Nash sings “Our House,” about the Laurel Canyon place he and Joni shared once upon a time. Mitchell’s fellow Canadian Diana Krall covers perhaps the bleakest song Mitchell ever did, “Amelia,” about a woman’s search for freedom, what it costs and what it’s worth. James Taylor and Seal collaborate on a tune I cannot abide, “Woodstock”; if it seems particularly airy-fairy, remember that Mitchell actually didn’t play the Woodstock fest.

The vocally craggy Kris Kristofferson takes on “A Case of You” with Brandi Carlile, right before Carlile solos to cover “Down to You,” a startling sound-alike version of a very complicated song. Emmylou Harris (the other woman in The Last Waltz) covers Mitchell’s terrifying slide-guitar lament about heroin, “Cold Blue Steel and Sweet Fire.” Los Lobos perform the obscure but fine “Nothing Can Be Done.” The congas in the original must have attracted the Wolves.

Making a rare appearance, but not joining in on the music, is Mitchell herself. Buffeted by the years, she’s still everything Chaka Khan calls her here: a lifesaver.

‘Joni 75: A Birthday Celebration’ screens on Thursday, Feb. 7, and Wednesday, Feb. 13, at the Smith Rafael Film Center, 1114 Fourth St., San Rafael. Feb. 7 is sold-out; Feb. 13, 7pm. $15. 415.454.1222.

Hero & Zero

Hero

After spending more than eight years apprehending violent felons, locating evidence in crimes and operating with the San Rafael-Novato SWAT team, Lex, a specially trained police dog and respected member of the Novato Police Department, will enjoy a well-deserved retirement. The beloved Belgian Malinois joined the department in 2011, purchased with a donation from Marin County Supervisor Judy Arnold and support from the nonprofit organization Pennies for Police Dogs. The Novato community named him Lex after a military police dog who received a Purple Heart; fittingly, the word lex means “law” in Latin.

During his career, Lex partnered with Officer Kendrick Pilegaard in the patrol division of the Novato PD. The pair frequently battled the drug trade, with Lex using his powerful sense of smell to sniff out illegal narcotics. (A dog’s nose houses 300 million olfactory receptors versus a human’s 6 million.)

Lex was also a champ at interacting with the public, one of the most important aspects of his work as a police canine. Together, Lex and Officer Pilegaard conducted demonstrations to hundreds of people, fostering positive relationships between the police and the community.

The NPD reports that working dogs like Lex aren’t often treated as pets. The next chapter for Lex includes living with Officer Pilegaard and his family, relishing the relaxed life of a treasured pooch. We salute Lex for his loyal service and wish him well in his golden years.

Photo courtesy Novato Police Department

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